Hello to all,and welcome new members.As the group has been quiet as of late I thought I would post something on my latest finished project, before digging in for winter here in Vermont. Since I wanted to build some Boat Shuttles, and had not yet worked with Exotic woods it seemed to be just the time to put the two together,having always admired these wonderful hardwoods from places such as Africa, South America, and distant Tasmania.These woods are some of the densest, oilest, and heaviest woods known.The glue I chose was "Gorilla Glue" which worked very well with careful preparation of these woods.A miter saw, small drill press, router, and a belt sander for final shaping were used.The bobbin shaft is of 3/16" steel rod from Home Depot with one end hammered smooth, flat, and drilled for a pin. I employed the use of 1/4" round N42 rare earth magnets,purchased on Ebay at the front of each shuttle, set in with epoxy cement.The woods were purchased on line from Bell Forest Products, and the 1/4" wood for the sides at E-bay.I'll also mention one shuttle was made from an Exotic wood called Spalted Curly Maple.This lovely rare wood was salvaged from my firewood pile! Now It takes so much longer to carry in the stove wood as I look at each piece as a prospective shuttle candidate! As these woods do have some very unique aspects such as possible allergens from the wood dust,also very oily and dense,with some unpredictable curving, I'd say use good shop safety measures,study the grain directions,and buy lots of sand paper! I sanded to 400 grit, and apply Briwax paste wax keeping the shuttles soft and satiny showing off the woods natural beauty while still being able to easily grip them.The overall cost to build comes in at around $150 for materials. Since the larger ones sell for around $90 each and are made by very few craftsman, a set of six at about $150 is a good price indeed! The sizes are two each of twin 4" bobbins, 6" bobbins, and single 4"s. The 4" bobbins are wooden Harrisvilles, the 6" are plastic Leclercs.If anyone would like to build some of these Shuttles and have questions please ask. Regards, Frank

Comments

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi all, I forgot to mention the names of the woods used on each shuttle can be viewed at: TheLoominary's Projects. Frank.

Joanne Hall

Hi Frank, Have you woven with them?  Give them a try and tell us what you think.

Joanne

marlenedg (not verified)

 They are beautiful! I bet they feel real nice in your hands too. Very nice work.

marlene

SallyE (not verified)

These are truly beautiful!   Wow!

 

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi Joanne, I've tested one each of the three sizes on a test warp at 6 dent. Since they have a low profile,and a fairly wide stance with a high nose attitude they are quite stable,and the heavier ones don't try to dive. They all vary in weight depending on the density of the woods. In an effort to balance weight distribution the smaller shuttle have the heaver tips, while the larger ones use the lighter.They are nice in hand, and if anything at this point I'd have to say they are fast. The bobbin shafts are mounted a bit higher in the body allowing a good amount of loading while discharging the weft at a nice downward angle toward the weave.The shaft I.D. is 3/16" filling the bobbin bore well, and reducing chatter. I'll learn more of them as I try different weaves. Frank,

r1mein54 (not verified)

Nice looking pieces and good woodworking. Yes, do let us know how well they work (weight, slide, drag, snag). I might want to carve out one this winter from some native huckleberry trunk wood.

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hello, Marlene, and SallyE. I'm glad you like the shuttles. Nature has always provided the most beautiful materials, It's just up to the artist to find unique ways to use it. Frank 

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi, r1mein54.Huckleberry root wood sounds interesting! I must admit my favorite is the Spalted Curly Maple recovered from my wood pile! These shuttles are actually made up of four or five pieces,then glued and shaped.If you get to make yours please do post some pictures.Frank

Joanne Hall

Hi Frank,

In your experiments, I would like to know which will reduce drag on the thread, a thin spindle and small hole in the bobbin, or a thicker spindle like you have and a matching bigger hole in the bobbin.  I find that the drag that the bobbin causes on the thread is the biggest problem with bobbins.  Bobbin winders come in both sizes, but no one makes bobbins for the thin size.  I would speculate that the thin hole and thin spindle would make less drag.  What do you think?

Joanne

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi Joanne.I suspect you have a valid point, as there would be less surface contact with a small shaft, and smaller but adequate opening in the bobbin. I do have some suggestions though. When I make the bobbin shafts I initially polish them.then check the bobbins for rough spots,and burs. I find also that some times weavers want to really load a bobbin beyond the wells capacity thus creating undue drag at least at the start. Another important point is as I mentioned before, my placing of the shaft at a higher point allowing the weft to travel towards the weaving. Also I provide an ample opening for weft to exit which is smooth and well rounded for the entire length of the bobbin. There are so many variables with the types of weaft, some messier than others, I'm sure a regular cleaning may also help. I'll keep experimenting and post any useful findings. Regards, Frank

Joanne Hall

The bobbins always create a lot more drag on the thread than paper or cardboard bobbins, no matter what shuttle I use.  Maybe that will be a clue for you.  The extra drag is a real problem for selvages, so I never use the bobbins any more. 

Joanne

PS I just wove with a double bobbin shuttle with quills and it worked perfectly.

 

TheLoominary (not verified)

Thanks Joanne, I shall keep this in mind, and possibly try some different materials, as there are many types of materials available from the manufacturing sector such PVC, Teflon, and thermal plastics all available in tube form. Always a new adventure! Frank.

Joanne Hall

Weavers tend to like natural materials.  And since size may be the important factor, it would be interesting to hear if you can do some size related to too much drag on the threads experiments.

Joanne

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi Joanne, when I mentioned the plastics I was referring only to bobbins. I would not want a cold chunk of plastic in my hand either. I like the Harrisville wooden bobbins, and wish they also came in 6". When you mention "size" related to drag are you referring to the bobbin shaft and bobbin opening? I plan to actually get some weaving in this winter, and restart building this spring. I've some more ideas with shuttles, and will certainly keep experimenting! Frank.

Joanne Hall

Yes, it is the bobbin that creates the extra drag.  Paper and cardboard quills let the thread off more easily and so the selvages are not pulled in when weaving.  Many weavers who use bobbins prevent the draw-in by pulling the thread out of the shuttle before throwing it.  They often do this by extending their arm away from the warp before throwing the shuttle.   This is an extra unnecessary movement and it usually creates a loop of weft at the selvage.  Then they have to put their thumb on the bobbin so that they can make the loop disappear.

Joanne

mneligh

More than thirty years ago I got a walnut shuttle that looked remarkably like the one shown in the picture.  It's 15" long, quite heavy, and has a slot the length of the bobbin for the thread.  It was made from a single piece of wood, not constructed.  Instead of being flat across the ends of the cental bobbin hole, it is shaped like the top of a heart, made by the initial drilling before a saw was inserted.  It is my favorite shuttle, partly because of the weight and partly because the bobbin always freely feeds the weft and travels well across wide warps.

I also got a Glimakra shuttle at the same time, and it has problems.  It has a small hole and gradually narrows at the ends of the bobbin aperature.  I have to open the shuttle, pull out weft, and close it for every throw or else it hangs up and causes edge problems.  I have tried to give it away numerous times, and no one likes it once they try it.

The longer the slot on the side the better.  If using bobbins as opposed to quills, the end shape is also important.  The bobbin is pulled against one end or other as it feeds, and the heart shape provides the minimum contact (= friction) between the bobbin and the end of the shuttle.

I have numerous shuttles, and I found these basic principals apply across the board.  On the other hand, open, closed, and wheeled bottoms seem to work equally well for me.

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi Joanne. This is very interesting information. One of my findings while using bobbins is the fact that many shuttle manufactures use a very small weft discharge slot. When the weft leaves the bobbin through this narrow slot drawing off the back end windings this forms a "V" shaped draw,and in turn throwing the bobbin forward, and unnecessary rubbing the bobbin well. This is entirely eliminated with a full length discharge slot. I'm going to try the cardboard quills next. Thanks,Frank

Joanne Hall

for cotton and linen always have the exit hole on the side which bulges out, making the assymetrical shape.  And, if you use quills in these shuttles, there is no problem with the exiting of the thread through a smaller hole on a normal size shuttle, about 12 inches long.  I do not find quills getting caught in the shuttle, but when using bobbins in any shuttle, the bobbin often gets caught.

Swedish shuttles are designed to be used with paper or cardboard quills.  Swedish weavers usually make their own paper quills and do not use plastic bobbins like American weavers do.   The quills work much better, are more quiet, can be any length and they hold more thread.  They have been used for centuries.  Plastic bobbins are new in comparison.

Although some Swedish shuttles can be used with the plastic bobbins, they are not designed for them and some do not work with bobbins. 

Joanne

SallyE (not verified)

Hi Frank,

What is the purpose of the rare earth magnets on your shuttles?

This discussion of the slots has made me take another look at my shuttles.   I'm assuming I can use my router to make the slots longer if I want. . . . .

Joanne,

I can't picture the shuttle you are describing - the one you like best.   Can you post a picture of it?

Thanks,

TheLoominary (not verified)

Joanne thanks for some clarification in using quills as opposed to bobbins especially with the swedish style shuttles. I'll make one other note here if using bobbins, one should take note as to the shape of the ends of the bobbins purchased for their shuttles. Some shuttle wells are rounded while others are square.The Harrisville wooden types are rounded on the ends thus working fine in both shuttle types, however the squared end LeClerc type may rub in the rounded shuttle well. All these little things can add  up to some unnecessary drag. Frank 

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi SallyE, The rare earth magnets in my shuttles are used as a non-mechanical means to secure the end of the bobbin shaft.The opposite end swings up on an axle. Since they are several times stronger than anything of equal size a, 1/4" is all that is needed.They work great. As far as opening up you shuttle slots, I'd suggest trying the paper or cardboard quills mentioned by Joanne first, if that fails,then on to the router!  Frank.

mneligh

I do use quills when absolutely necessary, like with the Shambow, which is end-feed.  I also put a slip of paper around the shaft of my drop spindle and slip that directly onto the shaft of shuttles.  I have bobbins that have built-in spacers at each end, although placing beads on either end of the shaft also works. 

However, I thought we were discussing ideal shuttle design, not work-arounds.  In that case, the shuttles made by TheLoominary appear to be very close to what I consider the ideal design. 

Sara von Tresckow

Just to place a comment here, I find that using bobbins is an invitation to have loose ends slipping off the bobbin while weaving. I've used both bobbins and quills and find that the flanges somehow work on the package in a negative way and cause loops of yarn to fall over the ends.

Also, the cardboard quills(or self-made paper ones) are as good a package as it gets - they are slightly out of round, but with little weight or friction - meaning that there is a little bit of drag to prevent excessive unrolling and enough drag to place the weft accurately, but not too much to cause puling on insertion. They are certainly NOT a work around - if anything, the expensive plastic and wood bobbins with flanges are an attempt to place "convenience" somehow in the hands of weavers, without stellar results.

We sell quills to many weavers with all types of shuttle - with success.

Also, the dream of short shuttles is a bit misplaced. The longer the shuttle, the better the balance. As a drawloom weaver, I have shuttles up to 18" in length - and the cavity takes the standard 5" or 6" quill - so that the shuttle is gently placed across the web, not "thrown". Even on narrow scarf warps, I prefer a shuttle at least 12" long just for smoothness. The cute little bull-nosed ones are the first to dive through any warp.

The curved flat Swedish(actually generally European) shuttles fit the hand and glide across the web - where the squared bullnose shuttles do not fit the hand as well and lead to a jerky "throw". I'm not sure, but it sometimes seems that the bullnose design came from the flanges on the bobbins needing a larger cavity - and resulting in a "popular" model that is not the best for weaving quality fabric.

As for double shuttles, I have never had success using them - the bobbins or quills are wound such that the exiting yarn is not always coming from a place with the same circumference - leading to uneven discharge.

Far better is to wind those two threads carefully on the package - next to each other under equal tension. And for anyone questioning this, check my web page here:http://woolgatherers.com/GALLERY.html

The William Morris piece pictured in the header was woven on a TC-1 using 20/1 linen spooled double on cardboard quills. There was no issue with the weft reeling off unevenly.

 

Joanne Hall

I agree completely with what Sara has said.  It is nice to have Sara around as she usually states it how it is.  I also want to repeat what she said about the bullnose shape of some shuttles.  These are mostly newer shapes, certainly not traditional.  I find that I need the more pointed shape in order to weave quickly.  It is much easier to throw and catch a shuttle if you have that pointed extension to give your hand something to hold.  And yes, many shuttle are really too thick.  This is done so that the plastic bobbins are not sticking up.  1 inch or less thickness is much easier to throw and catch.  Try it.

Joanne

 

 

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi Sara, Sage advice as always. I would like to add though, while those lovely european shuttles the Vendors like to sell are surly tried and true they are considerably harder to replicate at home. Since the true intent of a group like "Home Built Equipment" is to show and assist weavers in building equipment they might not otherwise be able to afford at this time. Many weavers may not wish to pursue the finer fabrics such as Danask, nor some of the more complex weave structures. American companies such Bluster Bay, and independent craftsmen such as Ken Ledbetter have been producing wonderful "Bull Nosed" shuttles with excellent results, and great praise from their owners.Thanks again for sharing your wealth of knowledge. Frank

 

Sara von Tresckow

So what??? Why produce tools of poor quality? I know that the European shuttles require more work and perhaps more tools, but for centuries, that was the way they have been made - not to make it easy for the shuttle maker, but to ensure quality fabrics.

DIY needn't be poor quality. We also repair spinning wheels, and the home builts from "wonderful woodworkers" are the worst to get spinning well for similar reasoning. The spokes are lovely, but that functional flyer would have been "too difficult to make that way".

You want your woodworking equipment to do its job well, why wouldn't a weaver expect the same thing?

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi mneligh, somehow I missed your post this morning. I'm glad you are having good results with this type of shuttle, as are many others. I'm also glad there is such a great variety of shuttles available. There seems to be something for everyone's likes, needs,and preference. Frank

EvaHall

These two are my favourite shuttles, one is a Glimåkra, and I love it because it lies so  well in my hand. The second came with my first loom, which was homemade by the great grandfatather of one of my collegues. I do not know who made the shuttle, but it of course have the same origine. It is carved out of one piece of wood and I love it as much as the Glimåkra. They are both used with cardboard quills.

So yes, you can make your own swedish style shuttles. I guess that the old shuttle ( and the loom) came from Mo i Rana in the northern part of Norway, where Sweden is only a few kms away.

Joanne Hall

Thanks Eva for sending these photos.  My favorite shuttles include these.  I also have another favorite Swedish shuttle which is at least 100 years old and it looks just like these.  It is shorter, 10 1/2 inches long (also very slender) and I use it for ordinary linen and cotton threads, like 8/2.  I can really weave fast with it.  All of my favorite shuttles weight about 3 oz. 

I use longer shuttles for wool or thicker yarns and they also have longer quills, usually 5 and 6 inches long and these shuttles weigh about 4 to 5 oz. 

Joanne

PS  If you use a plastic bobbin shuttle and weave on a wide warp, the drag caused by the bobbin makes it harder to get the shuttle across the warp.  That is the reason you hear weavers recommending heavier shuttles.  If you use a quill, you do not need a heavy shuttle.  It only makes more work.

Joanne Hall

In the 80s, Handwoven magazine had an issue with a comment about putting beads on each side of the bobbin.  Since bobbins catch now and then, no matter the shape, destroying selvages and making weavers upset, this response was meant to help.  And I have heard this recommendation repeated regularly since then.  Actually, it is better to put a small metal washer on each side.  This will reduce the catching of the bobbin without reducing the space the bobbin has to move.  If you do not have some space on each side of the bobbin, it cannot move back and forth as the thread exits.  The thread comes off the bobbin from side to side making the bobbin move side to side.  Restricting this movement creates even more drag on the thread.  So, the washers are a better choice, leaving some space for the bobbin to move and reducing drag on the thread.

Joanne

TheLoominary (not verified)

Since this thread has taken off,and has indeed generated some very good information for all, I will jump off here. I will continue building equipment of the highest quality in materials and workmanship, well designed and tested, and as always share all information and assist anyone who would like to build their own "Home Built Equipment".There is no one perfect tool, there are also no perfect weavers,however we will all improve with time,and practice. I have nothing to sell, nothing to gain, I respect all opinions, and welcome new Ideas. Best Regards, Frank

Joanne Hall

when you try some new shuttle designs.  We enjoy hearing about them, so keep up the good work.

Joanne

ruthmacgregor (not verified)

Frank, your beautifully-made shuttles have sparked some excellent discussion -- which I've enjoyed as much as the lovely pictures!  Thank you for sparking it all.

I very much enjoyed the photo of your shuttle-in-progress, which shows how you've thought through many of the quirks of shuttle making that have stopped me from getting past the "rough idea" part of the process. I don't have the tools to work hardwoods into the smooth, finished items like you've made -- but seeing how you've put the pieces together gives me ideas I can use on the woods I have here....

For the record, I also weave with quills instead of bobbins.  I have a stock of both -- but the quills are smoother, lower-profile and quieter; and I like them.  My shuttle collection features many shapes, sizes and weights -- and what I use seems to depend a lot on what I'm weaving. Most of my looms have small sheds, so I tend to use low-profile shuttles more than boxy ones.

It will be interesting to hear what you find as you start putting your new shuttles to use.

Ruth

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi Ruth,I'm glad you enjoyed the shuttles, and their lively discussion! It is always my intent to inspire and indeed show what is possible for anyone interested in, for whatever reason,to build some of their own weaving tools.Just as in weaving itself there are varied skill levels, and many specific needs. Since my own weaving interest lies in Traditional Scandinavian Rag rugs,woven on wonderful home built equipment I chose to make some things for myself. A nice example this work is Eva Halls wonderful craftsman built shuttle made in pine which has endured  the test of time. This could be fashioned at home, however It would require a much higher skill level,a sound knowledge of carving, and use of proper hand tools.Never be afraid to try. The knowledge is now easily available free for the asking through the wonders of the internet! Go for it, and work safe! Frank

Kade1301

TheLoominary. I would never have thought about building a shuttle in pieces and glueing them together. And I don't have the skills - or tools, or even the roughest idea of how to go about - to build a one-piece shuttle. Just a huge amount of admiration for the people who built those Swedish shuttles long before the arrival of power tools!

I just about managed with electric jig saw, sander and Dremel, and the result ist not beautiful, but workable (and it was free, as I used scraps of soft wood I had lying around). You do what you can with what you have (on fait ce qu'on peut avec ce qu'on a - a French motto that must pre-date McGyver...)

 

TheLoominary (not verified)

Thanks Kade1301, I'm glad you liked my shuttles. Building things from what you have, using the tools, and skills you possess is what we do at "Home Built Equipment".Useful items need not be a masterpiece, they just need to work well. Keep making what you need, and enjoy the journey! Frank

rhuddle2000

As an experienced woodworker and new weaver, I have a hard time justifying $50 for a small boat shuttle made out of wood and piece of wire. I enjoyed the posts here and hope mine come out as well as yours.

Regards, Richard

rhuddle2000

As an experienced woodworker and new weaver, I have a hard time justifying $50 for a small boat shuttle made out of wood and piece of wire. I enjoyed the posts here and hope mine come out as well as yours.

Regards, Richard

rhuddle2000

As an experienced woodworker and new weaver, I have a hard time justifying $50 for a small boat shuttle made out of wood and piece of wire. I enjoyed the posts here and hope mine come out as well as yours.

Regards, Richard

rhuddle2000

As an experienced woodworker and new weaver, I have a hard time justifying $50 for a small boat shuttle made out of wood and piece of wire. I enjoyed the posts here and hope mine come out as well as yours.

Regards, Richard

TheLoominary (not verified)

Richard, I'm sure you will enjoy making your own shuttles. Mine were fun to make, and are a pleasure to use. Good luck, enjoy, and don't forget to show us your finished work. Frank.

ReedGuy

I've built 4 of my own, curved and flat with more point, not bull nosed. Use them all the time with paper quills. You can to. :) A couple of mine are on the short side, but I like my longer ones better.

Davie Hannaford Jr

Gorgeous work Frank.

And thanks to all who gave useful feedback.

I got out some material & fired up the router, since I have to wait for a month for some materials to make their way half way around the globe...progress on a small Koa wood shuttle.

Here's what I managed so far...

The loom I'm currently creating has a 2 inch weaving width.  More on that project at a later date.

Thanks for creating this group.

 

Davie

 

TheLoominary (not verified)

Great, and thanks for the updates!

James Carroll

I'm so glad this discussion has been revived! I have just read it from beginning to end with interest. I am sorry in one way, because now I have a whole new field of endevour to grapple with. Laughing

Would someone please give me some idea how to go about making my own paper quills.

ReedGuy

Here's a link on Bluster Bay Woodworks

 

http://www.blusterbaywoodworks.com/PDF/making-filling_quills.pdf

James Carroll

Very useful ReedGuy. Thank you.

I also found this link helpful.

http://oddweavings.blogspot.se/2012/04/more-spool-me.html

I have made some quills. Now all I need is a shuttle to use them in. Found a nice piece of Babinga in my old bowmaking kit, so it will cost me nothing to have a try.

rlanplein

my husband is a woodworker. I have been looking all over for plans for him to make me some boat shuttles.  Does anyone know where I can find some?   probaboy more on the Swedish style with qs.  Thanks!!

rlanplein

my husband is a woodworker. I have been looking all over for plans for him to make me some boat shuttles.  Does anyone know where I can find some?   probaboy more on the Swedish style with qs.  Thanks!!

Joanne Hall

Find the Swedish shuttle you like and copy it.

I like the 11 1/4 inch size which takes a 4 inch quill.  I use it for most of what I weave.  For a thicker yarn, like wool for a blanket, I choose the longer Swedish shuttle, 13 to 15 inches long, that takes a 5 or 6 inch quill. 

Joanne

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