Hi,

 

I was wondering if anyone has tried to take a reed that was too long for your loom and cut it down?  Did you try to reuse the end caps?  I realize that I'd be depleting the resale value of the used reeds if I cut a 45" down to 37"...but if I have to buy a new reed of the same length, it would cost me more than I'd get for the used 45" reed.

 

Any tips on doing this?

 

Thanks!

Comments

Mon, 03/15/2010 - 15:51

djfiberarts (not verified)

I've never done this but I would think that you wouldn't want to cut the reed to exactly 37". I'd think maybe 38 or 39" just to give you a little space. Hope that doesn't sound too dumb and obvious. Once again I've never done it but I would guess you could probably use a bow saw with a fine blade...the kind jewelers use.

DJ

Mon, 03/15/2010 - 15:58

sequel (not verified)

I have done this. On a pitch band reed all you need to do is remove the end caps, they are held in with a couple of nails, and take the end bar out.  The "teeth" of the reed are mounted between two half rounds of wood and metal.  When you measure to cut your reed, you will have to allow an extra quarter inch or so for replacing the end bar, so cut accordingly.  Then you may have to pull out a "tooth" or two to replace the end bar.  Put the end bar in the space created and nail the caps back on - gently!

On the new "welded" reeds, mine had an off-cut at one end and no end bar on that side.  I pried off the oval brass plate they glued over the end, cut it to size and re-glued (epoxy) the brass plate.  I'm guessing that since the manufacturer shipped mine like this, it is just as strong without the end bar.

I have a friend who did this to join to short reeds to make one long one for a special wide project she was doing.

Buy one of the "expensive" hack saw blades, not the cheapest.  Mine was a bi-metal 8% cobalt, whatever that means.

 

 

Mon, 03/15/2010 - 22:33

spinningalpaca (not verified)

Thank you all so much!  I'll definitely pay close attention to the tips I've received here before cutting down the reeds.  I will wait until I find out if I get a used 36" Mighty Wolf.  I want to see what the maximum length for the reed will be in the beater before I make any cuts. The 37" length was just for discussion purposes.

 

Thanks again!

 

Wed, 01/01/2014 - 00:45

umpqua medicin…

Thanks to sequel's post earlier, my talented husband managed to cut down an old reed to fit the Dorothy Leclerc that needed a 23 1/2" reed, not the 24" that I ordered which arrived 25". He took off the little nails that held the end caps, unwound the linen and removed reeds, cut the wooden frame to size and reassembled the end as it had been. I was so impressed and he might not have been willing except for your post.  Thanks so much.  It worked!  By the way, I used the 25" reed on the Rasmussen loom that my sis gave me, it works great for that one. Fixed two birds with one bandaid.

Wed, 01/01/2014 - 10:01

ReedGuy

Some beaters allow the reed to extend beyond the uprights of the beater. Then there is no need to 'hack' up a reed. I don't find reeds to be all that expensive, cheaper than the cost of some yarns for a blanket project. I buy Leclerc SS ones.

Something beyond what your asking for here. I've only bought two and have never desired to have more. As soon as I have a sett, say 28 instead of 24, I just compound sleigh and never been a problem. Or 30 instead of 32, I just go 32. A couple ends don't amount to beans when you start getting higher setts.

Wed, 01/01/2014 - 22:38

sequel (not verified)

The Dorothy and my Minerva both had reed channels that were not the type that could allow the unused ends of a wide reed to stick out either end.  I just happened to have a wider reed that was available for alterations.  Of course, I have cut down 60" non-returnable reeds that I ordered by mistake for my 42" loom with a closed end reed slot.  I now have a nice selection of real short reeds for my small loom.  I use my three reeds, 8, 10, and 12 for everything.  Maybe someday will consider a 15 if I start doing linen in finer setts since it is more likely to show reed marks.

Wed, 01/01/2014 - 23:44

ReedGuy

Yes, I have an 8 and a 16. When you start getting more dents your soon left with more wire than yarn passing through the reed. That's not good either. I also have a 4 which is home made, and works just fine up to 8 epi.

Tue, 02/21/2017 - 03:43

clsseattle

Hello!  I read the thread on cutting down reeds with round end caps.  I have done that successfully.  Now I want to shorten a newer reed with plastic edges.  How do I get the end bar out, cut to length, and get a couple of the reeds out, and how do I put the end bar back in later?  Thanks!

Tue, 02/21/2017 - 03:43

clsseattle

Hello!  I read the thread on cutting down reeds with round end caps.  I have done that successfully.  Now I want to shorten a newer reed with plastic edges.  How do I get the end bar out, cut to length, and get a couple of the reeds out, and how do I put the end bar back in later?  Thanks!

Tue, 02/21/2017 - 14:21

sandra.eberhar…

I have a lot of reeds, some very old, some very new, and I've never seen one with plastic end caps.  What kind of reed is it, what is the rest of the reed made of?

Tue, 02/21/2017 - 15:10

Joanne Hall

They are made of wood and are easy to cut with a hand saw.  But the all metal reeds require more care for you and them.  I would take it to a machine shop.  If you try to cut it yourself, do wear eye protection. 

Joanne

Tue, 02/21/2017 - 17:36

clsseattle

Sorry for the confusion!  The ends have steel bars, the tops and bottoms are plastic in a U shape, over what looks like metal in a U shape.  It looks like there is some kind of glue inside the metal U, and the metal reeds and the steel bar at the end are in that.  I think this is the newer kind of reed.  There is a 12 for (12 dent) stamped on the steel bar, but no brand name.  This reed is 36", and I want it to be 24" or 26".  Thanks!

Mon, 03/06/2017 - 17:51

clsseattle

Hi!  Does anyone have any ideas about this?  Thanks!

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