My last 8/2 cotton project, dish towels, was okay, but I would have liked a denser fabric. I had used the 10 dent reed with the threads doubled (20 epi). Suggestions made were:

    1.   Maintain a balanced weave. Ensure the weft is 20 ppi (picks per inch).
    2.  Several floor loom weavers said they used 24 epi.
    3.  Give it a 2nd whack when beating.

Dish Towel project> http://weavolution.com/project/10ashus/dish-towel-donation

I am ready to try the cotton again for a bag to store long tools in, such as warp sticks. Any advice or experience to share? Any tips on threading or weaving with doubled warp threads?

 

Comments

Sat, 12/03/2016 - 01:36

Joanne Hall

A temple will give you more wefts per inch, without having to physically beat harder.  And I seldom beat twice. I often use 24 epi so that I can use plain weave or twill.  With plain weave, I usually get 20 wefts per inch.  With twill, about 28 per inch.

Joanne

Sat, 12/03/2016 - 13:40

ReedGuy

I have always liked 24 epi, and use a temple. If it is a pattern twill, there is little effort getting it near perfect square at that set. If I were weaving a lace I would use 20 epi, 18 epi if a lace scarf. For a firmer plain weave cloth 24 epi is what I'd use. Sometimes we want softness and drape and other times, firmness. :)

I also have had mixed warp, 20/2 for tie downs and 8/2 for pattern. I still plan for 24 epi, by considering 2 - 20/2 warps is one 8/2 warp. So it is dented like 2- 8/2 ends and 1-20/2 per dent which is actually 30 epi in a 10 dent reed by the numbers. But is 24 epi in drape and feel.

 

Sat, 12/03/2016 - 17:43

10ashus

I had read about using a temple to prevent uneven selvedges. It is good to know it helps with weft per inch also. Makes sense. The temple opens the warp openings evenly so that the threads can slide down easily when beat.

"it is dented like 2- 8/2 ends and 1-20/2 per dent which is actually 30 epi in a 10 dent reed by the numbers. But is 24 epi in drape and feel."

I have seen this type threading with mixed ends mentioned also in reed substitution charts. The slow warp preparation time, with all the tying off of ends, would be worth it to get  the desired drape. When I sewed clothes, fabric drape was the number one factor. Your example made the factors more obvious to me: how thick is the thread and how much space between the threads.

For the specific project you mentioned, did you decide on your figures using just math or sampling?

Sat, 12/03/2016 - 19:30

ReedGuy

I put the finer yarn onto a sectional beam and the courser yarn onto a flanged beam. Trying to warp these two yarns on one beam would lead to one getting slack after a couple yards. You could slip a dowel or steel rod under the slack ones and secure with cord to the base of the loom though.

Wed, 12/07/2016 - 04:14

Sara von Tresckow

You seem to be using a rigid heddle loom. This requires a somewhat different approach than a floor loom. I have done towels following the Ashford instructions using 8/2 doubled in both warp and weft using the 12 dent heddle. Yes, this is basket weave, but turns out very nicely.

A temple is a definite plus to help pack the weft. Also, on the rigid heddle loom, whacking with the heddle is not the only method for inserting weft. Unfortunately they are no longer made, but Ashford had a "cotton stick shuttle" with a beveled edge much like a belt shuttle. You can enter the weft, press it in place with the heddle and change the shed. Prior to inserting the next weft, you can press the edge of the stick shuttle (more effective if thin or beveled) against the fell line to push the weft in firmly. Then enter the next weft, press in place with the heddle, change shed - and repeat pressing the weft in place firmly with the edge of the stick shuttle.

This technique also works beautifully to achieve weft dominant or weft faced fabrics.

Wed, 12/07/2016 - 05:04

10ashus

I have read about the technique described below. Is this how to create the doubled weft?

Pass the weft thread through the shed, beat, and put the heddle reed back in the same shed position. Secure the weft from pulling out your previous pick by wrapping the end warp thread. Do a second pick (row) in the same shed.

 

Wed, 12/07/2016 - 11:32

[email protected]

I am not familiar with the Ashford shuttle Sara mentioned but it brought to mind the Gilmore Dory shuttle. It is designed for their wave loom but I have been tempted to get one for use with my small Structo looms. 

Wed, 12/07/2016 - 14:37

Queezle

(sorry, couldn't resist that subject line).  I looked up the shuttle mentioned by Francine.  Here is the link, you need to scroll down about 90% down the page to find it.

Thu, 12/08/2016 - 01:28

Sara von Tresckow

On a rigid heddle loom with a stick shuttle, you carefully wind the weft thread doubled on the shuttle and put it in the shed. If there is a Dory shuttle would only work on very narrow pieces. Using the side of a very ordinary flat stick shuttle is VERY effective achieving weft density on the rigid heddle. The Ashford shuttles were 18" and 22" long.

Thu, 12/08/2016 - 05:20

10ashus

I have learned so many extra things from this discussion. I must get better organized with my note filing.

Hey, Queezle. Your Finding Dory headline gave me the giggles on a gray day.

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Rigid heddlers