Sett Fail

Disasters, near disasters, and triumphs in estimating setts and avoiding sleazy fabrics.


Posted on Fri, 04/29/2011 - 14:45

Give me a dope slap to the forehead!

I turned a Bertha Gray Hayes overshot draft (Trellis), so that it would become a one-shuttle weave. The wrap is now alternating 20/2 cotton (ground) and 10/2 (pattern).

The original sett was 30 epi in a 15 dent reed of 100% 20/2 cotton ground. Without really thinking about it, I decided to sley my first sample at 2 per dent (still 30 epi) thinking the thicker warps would pack it in more than if it was all 20/2. HA! (Talk about sleazy!)




Posted on Fri, 04/29/2011 - 16:06

Oh dear - you needed to remember that the ppi was going to be much higher than the epi.  That said, when I've turned weave structures like this, I've found that going to the unturned ppi was too dense, but sampling will tell the tale.



Posted on Sun, 05/01/2011 - 03:54

Sampling, exactly! (Notice how small sample #1 is!) I knew immediately this wasn't going to work. Arghhh.

My next attempt was at 3 ends per dent for a sett of 45. When I resleyed, the width went from 8" to 5.25" in the reed. (I guess I won't be making eyeglass cases out of this warp after all!)

MUCH better. But overshot needs to be squared, and these "circles" still looked a bit like ovals to me. 

Posted on Fri, 04/29/2011 - 18:45

You are definitely getting closer.  Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing and reminding us of the importance of sampling.


Posted on Sun, 05/01/2011 - 03:49

Sett Success! (sort of...) Yes, the circles appeared!

...and then I noticed the threading error on the left, one circle in from the selvedge. (How did I miss that before?) Argggh! But actually this one was easy to fix.

This sample was sleyed at 3,4,3,4,3,4 etc. in a 15 dent reed for a sett of 52 ends per inch. I still can't believe how much design Bertha Gray Hayes could extract out of a only 4 shafts!

And yes, I am now at just over 4" in the reed, so *certainly* within mug rug range, or perhaps an eyeglass pocket for a monocle?


Posted on Sun, 05/01/2011 - 03:51

I liked the pattern better on the bottom side. So for the final sample, I reversed the treadling, to bring the darker side of the pattern to the top.