Hello folks,

I've had a request to run a Twill WAL starting in March/April time, as this would require two heddles of the same dpi.

We have three already.

Here's what you will need to gather for the project.

2 heddles that are the same dpi.

Determining what dpi you need:

Choose your yarn, cotton or another non-sticky yarn is ideal, though I've been working with wool and can give you some tips if you choose a wool. You will want a fairly thing yarn, calculate or reference the epi that is recommended for a twill weave. I find Halyon Yarn to be invaluable for this. All their yarns give you recommended tabby and twill setts.

Now the slightly tricky bit, you need a heddle that is .75 that epi. Weaving a twill on 2 heddles increases the epi by 1.5

Twills work really well with stripes, both int he warp and the weft. If you're feeling brave you could try a colour gamp or a tartan!

Please feel free to ask what questions this may bring!

Cheers,

Erica

Comments

ingamarie

In music there is standard notation, which is universal across instruments, -- but there is also tabulature for guitars, which is more graphically related to just that instrument. Is there an equivalent system for RH looms. Seems like there should be.

CraftinSusan

I wish I could say that there is a standard notation but even in the hey day of multi-shaft RH weaving there wasn't.  Claudia linked a blog for me to view.  I hadn't seen that notation/wapring set up before and did some investigating through my multi-shaft RH weaving papers and books.  I discovered that besides the one that I had learned in the early 90s there was a second way.  It produces the same results but the way the heddles are warped and the heddle lifting order is different.

People are now rediscovering these techniques and it can be confusing.  Even some people back then didn't always follow the same way but switched.

The best way to figure it out is to draw up a RH draft.  Please excuse my crude drawings.  This is for a 3 2 1 threading.  I need to figure out how to do this in some sort of graphics program.  Just connect the 1s together, etc using a line and a different color for each warp thread number. 

O    O     O     O     O   Heddle 2 in the back

O    O     O     O     O   Heddle 1 in the front

The circles represent the holes in the heddles and the spaces are the slots.

This is one way to thread Warp Thread 1

O    O     O     O 1   O         Heddle 2 in the back

                           1      

 O    O     O     1     O             Heddle 1 in the front- warp 1 is through the hole

This is one way to thread Warp Thread 2

O    O     O     2    O            Heddle 2 in the back- warp 2 is through the hole

                     2  

O    O     O   2O    O        Heddle 1 in the front

This is one way to thread Warp Thread 3

O    O     O 3   O     O           Heddle 2 in the back

                   3

O    O      O3   O    O           Heddle 1 in the front

To get shaft 1 I lift up Heddle 1.

To get shaft 2 I lift up Heddle 2.

To get shaft 3 I lower both Heddle 1 and Heddle 2.

Merged together we get

O    O     O 3   2 1    O          Heddle 2 in the back- warp 2 is through the hole

                   3 2   1

O    O      O3 2 1    O           Heddle 1 in the front- warp 1 is through the hole

I hope that this is not more confusing.  The trick is to keep as straight of a line a possible when drawing out the threading sequence and not to cross any warp threads.  If that happened you would not get a clear shed.

claudia (not verified)

Hey Susan,

I like the way you demonstrated this.  I did have trouble with one section of threading on the plan we are using for this project.  Where you go from the warp thread that is in heddle 1 to heddle 3.  I will take pictures later. I have done a couple samples and am now doing a scarf which is looking very nice but the threading is strange.

I have one suggestion. In your diagram above, I would find it easier to understand if you just had the numbers on the two heddles and not in between.  It's a little confusing with 3 sets of numbers and I find it clearer with just the heddles numbered.  I would love to see the full threading numbered like this.  I think I screwed up somewhere but when I did it the other way, I ended up with sections (2-4 thread areas) of plain weave in between the twill.  I wove just as you say. heddle one up, two up, both down for 3.

Thanks for your help.

Claudia

CraftinSusan

123 1 321 drafting order.  I am just charting 123 1 and also skipping the center part of the earlier diagram.

The lone warp thread 1 is warped as I described above.

Now for  the reverse 123

Warp thread three is next

O    O     O     O   3  O    Heddle 2 in the back

O    O     O     O   3  O Heddle 1 in the front

Warp thread 2

O    O     O     2       O   Heddle 2 in the back

O    O     O    O 2    O   Heddle 1 in the front

Warp thread 1

O    O     O  1 O     O   Heddle 2 in the back

O    O     O     1     O   Heddle 1 in the front

Notice that this 123 is just the mirror image of 321

Combined

O    O    1 2     3  O   Heddle 2 in the back- wapr thread 2 in the holes

O    O       1 2  3    Heddle 1 in the front- warp thread 1 in the holes

Here is the same thing but with the center line

O    O   1   2      3   O   Heddle 2 in the back- warp thread 2 in the holes

             1       2  3

O    O        1  2  3   O   Heddle 1 in the front- warp thread 1 in the holes

 

claudia (not verified)

That's how I threaded and here's what my loom looks like:
     

See how crooked the threads are?  I tried threading without it being crooked but the web looked wrong in the sample.

It works but I have to use a pick up stick to get a clear shed when both heddles are down.  Did I do something wrong?  Should I need the pick up stick for the third shed?

Claudia

CraftinSusan

Claudia,

I am assuming that you are using the Diamond Twill draft  23 123 123 123 1 321 321 321 321 .  I also notice that on the right you have all purple and then an all white section while the rest is a combination of the two colors.  I am also assuming that each color combination or solid section has the complete Diamond Twill drafting sequence.

If we think about the finished warp we will see one thread in each hole of heddle 1 while heddle 2 will occassionally have a blank hole.  Each slot of heddle 1 will have two threads and each slot of heddle 2 also has two threads.  Having two threads in the slots can inhibit us from getting a clear shed.  I find that if I hold both heddles and pull them down and forward I can get the third thread to pop up.  And, yes, using a pick up stick will help get a clear #3 shed.

There are other thngs that can affect this clear shed:

1. Twisting threads together.

2. Threading the heddles incorrectly so there is too much of a jog to the right or left.  I noticed that on the right the solid purple and part of the white look straight and then in the middle the white takes an obvious slant to the left.  Perhaps you skipped a slot in heddle 2?  It is very easy to do.  Do you have to ask me how I know?  LOL

While warp threads 1 and 2 should do a very slight jog to the right or left going from slot to adjacent hole, every warp thread 3 is straight as it is just in the slots.  If you look directly at this three thread 'bundle' between the two heddles you will get an overall impression of 'straight'.  When we warp with two or more heddles this is what we are looking for even if we have to skip holes or slots to get this.  This is where the written out heddle drafting pattern of holes and slots comes in handy.

Personally at this point I would not rewarp since you can get a clear #3 shed with a pick up stick.

What yarn did you use and what are you making?

ingamarie

I'm not sure if I have the same problem, but for me the 3rd shed is compromised because some of the threads catch on the front heddle-- the 3rd shed is created when the back heddle is up.  They're not crossing or anything like that, it's just that the geometry of the loom/slots/holes relationship.  I can get the shuttle in there, but have to be careful.  I something like that happening Claudia?  marie

claudia (not verified)

The first sample I did of the diamond twill pattern, the one Susan has written out, there were patches of plain weave when I had an empty slot or hole in heddle 2. So, when I did this random stripe scarf warp (the one in my pictures) i used 5/2 perle cotton and I made sure I had the holes and slots filled and did not skip any.

My 3rd shed is with both heddles in the down position.  The scarf looks as though the diamond pattern is throughout the scarf, unlike the sample I did where there were areas of plain weave.  When I cut the sample off and finished it I rethreaded the heddles to be certain I didn't skip anything and I checked and double checked my threading.

I'll be done weaving soon, looking forward to seeing the finished scarf.  Hopefully, I did it correctly because I have accepted a commission to make the same scarf in tencel.  Although this is a scarf, it is also sort of a big sample so I don't screw up a job for a client.

Claudia

ingamarie

So, here's what happens on the Emilia, the slotted threads catch on the back heddle when it is up like this

So I get this funky third shed. .. not a huge deal, but annoying.

 

All in all I'm pretty happy with it though, this is on the loom and so stretched quite a bit, the sample pulls together so it's not so open.

 

claudia (not verified)

That's what my shed looked like from the side so I just slipped the pick up stick in there and then wove.  It's off the loom now and  I will wet finish it tonight and take pictures tomorrow.  Mine does not look nearly as lovely as Marie's but I am doing the diamond twill.  I like the straight draw much better.

Claudia

Erica J

Wow! We've got some great pictures here and I hope some good experiences. I wasn't sure when we started this how different threads would react on different looms. I've certainly found that it's easier for me to use a pick up stick to get the third shed for my twills. I hope that is working for everyone.

I'm sorry I've not had time to check in more often, but it seems that you are all making cracking progress. I can't wait to see more pictures and to see how my own diamond twill experiment works out. I've got my loom warped and the heading woven, not I just have to work up the nerve to start weaving!

Wish me luck,

Erica

CraftinSusan

Ingamarie and Claudia,

There is a way to minimize that 'wonky' shed we can get when we use two or more heddles.  Normally when using one heddle we would use the heddle block.  For one shed the heddle sits on top of the heddle block and for the second shed the heddle goes under the heddle block.

But in this case we would move both heddles so they are in front of the front heddle block.  Neutral position is where the heddle is just sitting on the warp in front of front heddle block.

For Shaft 1, we push both heddles against each other and have the back heddle touch the front heddle block.  Raise Heddle 1 to get the shed for Shaft 1.  Heddle 2 is in Neutral position or you can try pushing it down.  Use whichever way gives you the better shed.

For Shaft 2, we again push both heddles against each other and back heddle is against the heddle block.  Leave Heddle 1 in Neutral position or push slightly down and raise Heddle 2 to get the shed.  You could try putting Heddle 2 on the front heddle block and have Heddle 1 up against Heddle 2.  This may or may not give you a 'wonky' shed

For Shaft 3, we push Heddle 1 against Heddle 2 which is again against the front heddle block.  Now we push both heddle down to free Warp Thread #3.  Sometimes these threads will be caught against the other threads.  In that case, holding both heddles together while pushing them down bring them forward toward you and then back.  Shaft 3 threads will pop up.

The only way to discover which way is best for you is to try different ways for each shed..  You may find that these may vary among the different RH looms.  Using the way I just described means that I have to hold the shed open with one hand while inserting a shed stick or shuttle with the other.  That is not as convenient as using the heddle blocks to keep the shed open.

Susan

ingamarie

The Emilia doesn't have heddle blocks, it has those holders. Here's what I do, Shed 1 (you call it 3)- both down, shed 2 (your 1)- front up, back down, shed 3 (your 2)  front down, back up. It's that last shed that's funky--- and I kind of get around that by letting the front heddle float rather than putting it in it's notch.  But I think it may be the geometry of the loom, since the Emilia has that raised back beam.

marie

 

CraftinSusan

But you can still bring the two heddles forward in front the first holder.  It is the same principle.  If you get a chance please try it and let us know what worked the best for that type of RH loom

ingamarie

It just moves the problem further forward and gives you one less hand to fiddle with the weft with... but I'll play with moving it around the loom and see if there's a place that works.

ETA:

I fiddled a little more with it and moving the two heddles does move the lower threads up to meet the middle ones in that funky shed, but it doesn't make that shed any larger so it's not really an improvement and there's one less hand to maneuver the shuttle through with. I"m also not sure any more that it's the Ericas geometry.  more updates as events warrant as Calvin would say.

 

ETA#2--  I got it to work!

I took the front heddle bracket off..  and I can get it to hold both of the heddles--

Shed 1 both down

Shed 2 front up, back in neutral

Shed 3 back up , front in neutral

Before I was using the down space instead of the neutral, and that was making the funky shed. With them in the neutral space I have both hands free for the shuttle.

 

marie

momframer1 (not verified)

CraftinSusan invited me over to join in on the twill WAL. I am a total newbie and I fear I will drive you all mad with questions.

If I have 2- 7.5 epi heddles what weight yarn would you recommend? Please say fingering please say fingering..........

Thanks, Deb

claudia (not verified)

Hi Deb,

Glad you joined us.  Before I can answer your question about the 2 heddles, you need to figure out the sett for the yarn.  The fastest way to do that is to calculate the wraps per inch by wrapping the yarn firmly but not tightly around a ruler.  Make certain each wrap is snugly against the previous one.  Do that for 2 inches then, to find out your sett, divide that number in half to get your wraps per inch.  For plain weave, you will use half the wraps per inch as your sett ( ends or dents per inch of what you are weaving).  For twill weaves, you will use 2/3 of the wraps per inch as your sett.

Once you have calculated the sett or ends per inch then you can decide if the two 7.5 heddles are right for this project.  The WAL (weave along) is a 3 shaft twill so if you get 24 wraps per inch (wrap it around 2 inches and then count the number of wraps and divide in half so you have wraps per one inch) then your sett is about 15 for that particular yarn if you are weaving a twill. 

If I understand how using 2 heddles works, when you have 2 7.5 heddles and are doing plain weave, you add the heddle dents or ends per inch together.  When you are doing a twill, it's 150% or, for 2 7.5, it's 11.25. 

This is all probably clear as mud.  Reading one of Betty Davenport's books will help.  She writes about ends per inch in both books and explains using two heddles in her Patterns book (the second book with the brown cover).

I hope you'll join us.  Just start by wrapping the yarn you want to use for warp and figuring out the sett and we'll help you from there.

Claudia

momframer1 (not verified)

I have 2 contrasting skeins of 2 different brands of merino tencel that have a twill sett of 12-13.  Is that close enough to the 11.5 or should I go stash diving for something a little heavier?

claudia (not verified)

That should work just fine.  Leave yourself enough warp to sample before the project.  That's the only way to know for sure. Merino tencel sounds wonderful. I can't wait to see pictures.

BTW, my latest rh project, which was supposed to be a diamond twill is here.  I posted it to Weavolution with pictures yesterday. I did something wrong, the twill does not show except on the edges.  I have something else on the loom now but will go back to the 2 heddle thing after this one.

Claudia

momframer1 (not verified)

Your scarf  turned out beautiful. The pattern shows well in the high contrast area. I need to see what the design possibilites are with this type of twill so i can figure out how to warp it. This is my first time using 2 heddles. If I am direct warping do I warp through heddle 1 and then add the 2nd heddle when I am placing the threads through slots and holes?

Erica J

You can direct warp, but you'll want to double up every other slot,if that makes sense. Then you can add the second heddle and finish warping that way.

I hope this helps and hope I will be here for you all more often.

Cheers,

Erica

CraftinSusan

When direct warping you will want to go through the back heddle which is Heddle 2.  After winding the warp on you will thread Heddle 2 following the pattern.  The front heddle (Heddle 1) is put in and threaded.