I'm a new weaver, and still experimenting with yarn qualities. I just warped my loom for a scarf using a very nice pima cotton that I bought in a knitting store (17WPI). Sett 10. I had some variegated cotton chenille that I wanted to use for the weft, using a twill pattern from Anne Dixon's Four Shaft Pattern Directory. I've woven about 4 inches and you can't really see the pattern, because, I think, the thickness of
the chenille is giving me a weft faced fabric (I now understand that concept :-))). It looks ok, but it wasn't what I planned because I can't see the twill pattern, just the variegated chenille yarn.. I am
trying not to beat the picks too hard, but now I'm thinking maybe I should take out the chenille and try weaving with a less bulky yarn in a solid color. I'm also afraid the scarf will not drape well if the
fabric is weft faced. I could possibly also switch to another yarn for the body of the scarf and just keep the variegated yarn for a border at the end, if it won't drape wierdly in the finished product. Any
advise would be welcome.

Comments

lkautio (not verified)

What is the yards per pound of your cotton warp? 

Reading your description, I would be a bit concerned about the drape for a scarf, and the durability of the chenille floats at this sett in twill.  With rayon chenille this would be very tenuous, but cotton chenille is less apt to worm.

You will get a clearer pattern with a weft that is smooth and one color.  Both the fuzz and the variegation of your chenille work against your patterning.  Even with a lighter beat, they will still obscure the structural patterning.

I would consider this a sample, try a second sample with smooth simple yarn, then cut it off and wash both samples, and see which (if any) you like.  A shorter scarf is better than one that drapes like a board or that you are unhappy with.

Laurie Autio

Mike (not verified)

Excuse me for butting-in on this thread, but also as a beginner I have a similar question.

I have 2 differing yarns that I would like to use for a scarf project.  One is a supersoft lambswool, black in colour, with a count of 2800 yds/lb and snaps quite easily when pulled.  The other is a navy blue tencel yarn with a count of 3360 yds/lb and is very strong.  I would like to weave using a "Point threading over 10; 2/2 Twill" as per the middle design on page 80 of "Handweaver's Pattern Book".

Which of the 2 yarns would be better for the warp; I like the strength of the tencel.

lkautio (not verified)

I'd probably go with the ease of the tencel, rather than worry about the lambswool in the warp.  The wool will likely be fine in the weft.  I bet they will be effective together.

Laurie Autio

arubinst (not verified)

I decided to unweave the rayon chenille (it was rayon, not cotton, when I looked again) and use a plain bamboo/cotton blend (50/50) that matched the EPI of the pima cotton warp.  It is much better.

Now I am just trying to figure out what to do with the rayon chenille.  It sounds like to get the most of the variagation, I should use it for my warp (sett 10?) and then use a solid thread for my weft, using a tabby or plain twill for the pattern.  The rayon chenlle is 1000 yd/LB (DragonTale from EarthGuild in Asheville).  It's lovely yarn and I'd like to make sure my inexperience (in selecting yarn combos, as well as in weaving) doesn't make a mess of it!

 

lkautio (not verified)

The variegation will probably be more pleasing in the warp.  The key with setting chenille is to sett for the core size, not the fuzzy size.  So, the sett is tighter than you might expect.  I'd try 12 for 1000 ypp, and weave a sample with your weft choice to see if you like it.

Laurie Autio

arubinst (not verified)

Thanks Laurie.  I will try the yarn using your suggestion.  I'll let you know how it goes in a few days. 

Su Butler

Hey arubinst.....Laurie is right, rayon cheinlle needs to be sett according to the size of the core yarn...however, I respectfully beg to differ with her recommendation of 12 epi for 1000 ypp chenille. The core yarn in a rayon chenille with 1000 is close to the size of an 8/2 cotton, so a more appropriate sett would be 16-20 epi. If you want the rayon chenille to be the star, sett for a warp dominant weave at 20 epi and weave it with your sewing thread. 12 epi is far too open and will result in worming. The piece might feel stiff when on the loom, but after proper wet finishing, it will be soft and luxurious. Su :-)

lkautio (not verified)

Su's the expert on chenille.  I've woven the 1450 ypp rayon crossed with itself at 16-20 in plain weave without trouble so was dropping down the 1000 ypp for plain weave - perhaps too low.  Webs recommends a sett of 12-18 for plain weave for their popular 1450 ypp rayon chenille (I don't like the 12 for this yarn).  It will also depend on your weft choice.  I'm not too fond of chenille, but do like it crossed with sewing thread weight at a higher sett (28-30 for pw in 1450 ypp worked) for finer fabric.

Laurie Autio

Claudia Segal (not verified)

I love the Dragon Tale yarn and have used it several times for shawls.  As Su says, the sett of 20 worked well for the shawl I wove in plain weave.  I used a sett of 24 for twill and in both cases I used a solid cotton for the weft. It was several years ago and I don't have pictures but I do have the project sheet and sample and I checked my numbers there.

Claudia

arubinst (not verified)

Thanks so much for your comments.   I would have totally messed this up again, without y'all.  I'm going to use it as warp in a plain weave (sett 20) and then I think I will use a solid cotton or rayon yarn for the weft.  Is an 8/2 too fine?  I also have some lace weight knitting yarns...or I could use something thicker.  What do you recommend?  This will be either a scarf or a shawl (I need to double check how many yards of yarn I have again, before I make that decision).