Perhaps I should post this in weaving 101, but I wanted to tap into a wider range of experience. I just bought an 80 cm floor loom and am scouting warping boards.  A 12-14 yard board is more cost-effective but space-wise I am attracted to the 7-9 yard variety, which would be just fine for most purposes. Think towels, scarves, the usual beginner stuff, eventually moving up to baby blankets and throws, winding in two to four bouts.

To make the decision, I need to know: Is it easier to maintain tension winding on a wider or narrower board?  I have been assuming less horizontal distance makes it easier to be consistent. Does the vertical distance between pegs make a significant difference in either comfort or consistency of winding?  Finally, which works better--mounting the board vertically or using it flat?

Comments

Sun, 10/03/2010 - 00:48

Caroline (not verified)

I use warping posts, and have done a 15 metre warp on them - once. They are basically like the 2 side pieces of the warping board, and I clamp them onto a table, or the ironing board, or whatever is handy at the time. Yes, I found that with the wider distance it was harder to maintain a consistency in the tension, but I did it in small amounts at a time, took it slowly and carefully, and in the end I wasn't too far out in the length, just a matter of a couple of inches, which really surprised me! I probably won't do it again.

I think the key is towind the warp inch by inch, if necessary, and to take care as you go. If you try to warp up too much at a time, there is a very real chance that you could bend the pegs out of alignment.

My first board was one I used vertically, and anchoring it securely was the biggest problem. I didn't like it.

The beauty of my current system is that I can choose how long I want the warp to be by where I clamp it, and its so easy to store. Its basically two lengths of 3" x 6" with large dowels inserted into it every couple of inches. I have a 6 foot long kitchen table, which is how I can do a longer warp, but I also have a wooden tray that is 1 yard wide, so if I clamp it to either end I can get the shorter length in a very little space, sit down to do it, and not have to do much bending or moving around!

I'll be interested in what answers you get so I can improve my own set-up, though I find its perfect for my own modest needs.

Sun, 10/03/2010 - 01:46

laurafry

For anything more than about 3 yards, mounting the board vertically is easier on the back.  I've got a video clip on my You Tube channel showing how I wind warps.  I thought I could just click and paste the link but that's not working right now.  My user name is LauraAnnFry1 on You Tube if you feel like doing a search there.

My board is one meter from side to side and handles up to 14 meters.  The Leclerc board has pegs that can be removed so you only insert as many as you need for your warp.  A tiny time savings, but I welcome any hint/tip that reduces the amount of time it takes to do any of the processes in weaving.

Hand weaving is slow.  No need to make it slower by using equipment that slows you down even further!  :D

Cheers,

Laura

Tue, 10/05/2010 - 15:22

3looms (not verified)

Have you thought about a warping mill?  I find a mill much easier on my arms and shoulders than a board.  They usually fold flat for storage, so they don't take up a lot of room.

But you asked about boards:  I have 2, a 14 yd LeClerc, and a smaller Schacht (about 5 yd capacity).  For me, the pegs on the smaller board are too close together & I hit my knuckles against them unless I'm very careful.  I attach the boards to a shelf in the studio with C-clamps so they don't take up extra wall space. 

 I think getting an nice even warp package is less about the tool you use to measure than about not crowding too much into one bout, no matter what tool you use.

Tue, 10/05/2010 - 16:31

Weaverchick007 (not verified)

I once read an article or a post where a guy put posts into the door frame of the door of his studio.  Just drilled large holes, and then glued the pegs in.  I bring this up as it is a frugal solution, and it would also give you some flexibility as to the number of pegs you want to work with.

Also, I attended Ruby Leslie's class at Convergence (GREAT class) and she warps with 2 warping boards at a time to get her extra long 20 yard warps.  She also recommends warping in a vertical path as opposed to a horizontal path, as it gives your arm more frequent "rests" when you wind on the lower pegs on your board, and it is easier to maintain tension of the warp.  Her warping boards are vertical, mounted on the wall.  She loves it, and there were a number of "ooohs" in the class and great interest in this technique.

Me I'm a warping mill grrrrrl.  I think it is the most efficient, winds the best tensioned warp (for me), and the most comfortable.  I ran into this old, decrepit, dried out warping mill at a guild sale for $5.  Brought it home, cleaned it up and gave it some love and it works great.  Rubs on the side (I call this the "brake"), and squeeks (I prefer to think of it as singing), and doesn't fold up, but it works great and I absolutely love it. 

Just some thoughts...

~D

 

Tue, 10/05/2010 - 17:21

laurafry

Mounting the board vertically can cause problems if you have, as I do, whiplash injuries.  My body simply cannot repeatedly raise and lower my arm to such an extent as a vertically mounted board requires.   It is much happier with the gradual change in elevation of the horizontal placement of a board (or mill, for that matter).

I also prefer my pegs to be loose, not glued in place.  That way I can just insert as many as required for each warp.  Gives me more room to move my hands and allows me to work more quickly when I'm not trying to protect my knuckles from banging on the pegs.  :)

I recently put a video on my You Tube channel showing how I wind a warp on a board. http://www.youtube.com/user/LauraAnnFry1

Cheers,

Laura

Thu, 10/07/2010 - 02:47

Guiding Myth (not verified)

If you are looking for a warping board - I agree with Lara - vertical and horizontal pegs is easier on the body.  I would also recommend one that's about 1 yard or 1 meter wide to make it easier to measure your warp.

As for keeping even tension - 1.  You don't need any tension on the yarn at all.  Just let it pass over your hand without tension - don't hold it - just support it.  The tension produced by passing over your hand and exiting the cone is sufficient. 2. Warp quickly - if you wind the warp slowly (If you're like me) you will think too much about it and start putting in too much tension!  Most important - enjoy it!

Stephanie S

Thu, 10/07/2010 - 11:52

MaryMartha

Thanks, everyone. Lots to think about.  Laura, I enjoyed the video, especially seeing the hands-switching maneuver.  There's an interesting contrast here between commenters (and warping board manufacturers) who emphasize the strength of permanently attached, cross-pegged dowels that won't bend under tension and Laura and others who advocate warping more gently. Is this a function of different warp yarns, or could it be many of us are over-doing it?

I take it that tension on the loom comes from beaming, and that the goal for warping is achieving consistent length, with just enough "tension" to avoid tangles and loops.  I know from adventures with warping for tapestry that winding as taut as possible won't necessarily result in even tension.

Thu, 10/07/2010 - 12:26

lkautio (not verified)

I agree with the suggestion to consider a warping reel/mill. I find they cut my time to about a third of using a warping board, and are far easier on the back. Mine folds to less space than my (now unused) warping board, and a fair woodworker in the family could easily put one together for you for the price of buying a warping board. See if you can try one before buying the board.

http://www.yarn.com/webs-weaving-spinning-weaving-tools-warping-warping-mills/

Before I got the reel I used to put my board on a big chair at an angle and sit in front of it to wind. That seemed easier on the back.

Laurie Autio

Thu, 10/07/2010 - 16:49

laurafry

Yes, glued in pegs are stronger, but stronger isn't necessary.  The problem is that most new weavers get nervous and hold the threads very tightly which results in a warp that is longer at the beginning than the end and pulls on the pegs.  Woodworkers are not necessarily weavers and since they want their work to stand the test of time I think they go for the strong solution, not the weaverly efficient one.  :)

Much better to wind the warp on either board or reel with *consistent* tension - just enough to keep everything neat and tidy.

The only comfortable way to use a board that I've found is to stand in front of it, rocking slightly from side to side.  Mount it with the cross pegs about level with your shoulders.

If you don't have a space in your studio to mount a board this way a reel is probably a better choice.

Cheers,

Laura

Fri, 10/08/2010 - 11:26

Cynthia

Laura, it sounds like you are saying that you would only recommend a reel if someone couldn't mount a board on the wall.  Can you say more about your experiences with warping reels/mills?  I'm intrigued by them, myself, but haven't used one.

Fri, 10/08/2010 - 12:52

kerstinfroberg

I, like Laurie, prefer a reel because it is faster. I had a board for many years, but when I found I often visited friends (with reels) to make my warps I got one for myself.

It has to be sturdy, it has to stand level (or it will wobble when you speed up) - and I can make warps from 1,5 meters up to ... a lot. (Have never made a warp longer than 40 meters on mine, which has a circumference of 3 meters).

Seeing the next entry - maybe I should add it is vertical :-)

Fri, 10/08/2010 - 12:33

whiteoakgrandmother (not verified)

The book "Spinning and Weaving With Wool" by Paula Simmons has plans for a horizontal reel. I haven't made one, but the plans look simple enough for my limited woodworking skills. It also folds up or disassembles for easier storage. Mine doesn't, so I often don't get it out of storage to use, and make do with pegs or something else for small warps, but the reel is definitely nicer to use.
Fri, 10/08/2010 - 15:33

laurafry

I had a small reel and found that it wobbled and bobbled.  It also didn't allow me to make numerous colour changes for stripes in a way that I found comfortable.  When I changed my approach to designing and started doing lots of stripes, I found a board was a more comfortable tool to use. 

If I were to buy a reel now, I would likely want a large one such as Kerstin has.  But - I have no space to set one up.  So I beam sectionally on my AVL (most of the time - I have also got a warping valet/trapeze to do regular warp chains on the sectional beam) and the board.

Your 'best' tools will depend on what you are making and the space available...

Cheers,

Laura

ps - article on dressing the AVL sectional with painted warp on my website http://laurafry.com  Click on Warping Valet link

Mon, 10/25/2010 - 01:23

TinaHilton (not verified)

I'm trying to get caught up on the Weavolution posts and this topic really caught my eye.  I'm getting a table loom to take with me in the motorhome when we go down to Florida this winter (hope to attend one of your workshops Laura!).  I'm trying to figure out how to wind warps, though.  My warping board is too big to take.  It looks like the pegs won't let me include a cross, if I understand how they work.  Any suggestions? 

Mon, 10/25/2010 - 03:11

Joanne Hall

When I first started teaching there was a reel available.  After using it, I immediately got one for myself, two yards around and about 7 feet tall (made by my husband).  But I replaced with with a three meter reel, that's 10 feet around.  I sell weaving kits, so I wind a lot of warps.  The towel kits are over 400 ends, some nearly 500, 4 yards long and have many colored stripes in the warps.  I can wind the whole warp, two bouts and chain them in 15 minutes. 

One big advantage of a reel is that it is easier to wind 2, 3 or 4 threads at a time.  If you do that on a warping frame (board), it is hard to keep the threads from twisting or tangling and it gets very slow. 

I don't use a warping frame, unless I have a student who wants to learn how to use one.  A reel gives a move even, more accurate bout without twists.

Joanne

Thu, 10/28/2010 - 14:41

suzyhok (not verified)

I used to have a vertical warping reel - a Harrisville - and loved it!  When I thought I wouldn't be able to weave due to rheumatoid arthritis I sold it.  I now am back to weaving - yahoo! (thanks to heavy duty meds.)  When I got my new-to-me Mighty Wolf it came with a warping board.  It is MUCH more tiresome to wind a warp with the warping board.  I've finally found that leaning it against the back of the loom at an angle, the top resting on the castle that holds the harnesses, and bottom resting on the back beam provides a comfortable angle.  I can sit on a regular chair to wind the warp.  But... I hope I can find another warping mill sometime soon!

:-)  Suzy

Mon, 11/01/2010 - 10:28

Thumper70 (not verified)

I use a rigid heddle loom - but have a set of warping pegs for those longer projects - and like you I prefer them not only for their space saving, but also because they're more flexible. I've considered a "proper" warping board - but space is an issue. I'd not previously thought of issues of tension etc - but for my part I'd think that I'd have more control using pegs.

Mon, 11/01/2010 - 13:49

whiteoakgrandmother (not verified)

Tina, standard warping pegs do allow a cross, but with your space issues I don't think it would work for you unless you could do your warping outside. You have to have enough room to stretch your warp the full length, so they take little room when stored, but a lot of room in use. You might want to consider having a woodworker make you a small warping board that can be disassembled. Lap joints at the corners, and wing nuts on bolts that hold it together. There is another warping peg method for rigid heddle looms that uses only one peg, but I don't think (?) it would work for a table loom, and it also needs room when in use.
Mon, 11/01/2010 - 16:02

laurafry

My Leclerc board comes apart for storage and has removable pegs so that it breaks down into quite a small bundle.  You might look for something like that?  To wind a warp on a board I hang it on a wall with the cross pegs at the top just around shoulder height and stand in front of it, rocking slightly side to side as I wind.  (Video clip on my You Tube channel or blog) 

Cheers,

Laura (hope to see you in January Tina!)  :)

Mon, 11/01/2010 - 17:24

Joanne Hall

Hi Tina,

If you have a table outside to put the table loom on, you can direct warp using one peg.  Attach the peg on any part of the motor home or secure spot, the measured distance away from the loom.  Attach your lease sticks on the back of the loom.  Before you take the warp to the peg, put the yarn through the lease sticks.  This gives you the cross.  I have taught this in beginning workshops and it is easy to do.

Joanne

Sun, 11/07/2010 - 20:45

doreenmacl (not verified)

Thank you for this post! I have been puzzling about how to do direct warping for a small project on a table loom. I will definitely give this a try. I have used a warping board, an upright floor mill and a horizontal table mill. My absolute favourite was the floor mill but I really did not have room for it because it did not fold, so traded it for the smaller horizontal table mill, which comes apart and folds flat. I found I could not use my wall mounted warping board when I was making a silk warp at 30 epi for tartan with very dark colours- impossible to see what I was doing. One day I hope to have another floor mill which folds back flatter to the wall eg the Leclerc model.  Anyone have one for sale?! :)

Mon, 11/08/2010 - 00:30

TinaHilton (not verified)

Apparently I'm not getting notified of comments.  Thanks for the ideas.  The direct warping does sound interesting.  As for making a collapsible warping board, I don't know why I didn't think of that.  My hubby has a whole room full of woodworking tools, so I'll ask him if he can try making one soon.

Mon, 11/08/2010 - 03:25

Judith (not verified)

I have a large Glimakra warping reel. It is the best tool I own. It makes warping a pleasure.
Mon, 11/08/2010 - 18:23

Joanne Hall

Hi Kerstin,

It is the method used in Sweden for making a warp for band weaving (wrapping around a peg or a chair directly on the loom rather than winding the warp on a reel before putting it on the loom).  It was introduced into the US by a Danish weaver who was writing for Ashford for rigid heddle weaving.  Now it is thought of a rigid heddle warping method. I will send you the file for the Glimakra rigid heddle loom.

Joanne