I am setting up this loom for the first time, and the first time every setting up a countermarche.  With the shafts locked, are the tie ups to the treadles supposed to have any slack?

 

Katie

Comments

Sun, 10/31/2010 - 19:24

Joanne Hall

Hi Katie,

It depends on the number of shafts you have.  I would just tie them and then when you are ready to start to weave, press on a treadle and see what the shed looks like.  That is the time to make any necessary adjustments.  And that is when you learn what your loom needs for the number of shafts you have tied up.

Joanne

Sun, 10/31/2010 - 21:37

Katie Lacewell (not verified)

Okay, Joanne.  Will do.  It came with two treadles tied up for plain weave and when I checked that shed, it was awful.  So I locked the shafts and tied up the rest of the treadles (it's 8 harness, so 10 treadle) in a regular twill.  I'll see what I get this time!

Katie

Mon, 11/01/2010 - 00:51

Joanne Hall

Do you have 8 shafts threaded? 

Joanne

Wed, 11/03/2010 - 00:32

Katie Lacewell (not verified)

Yes, I do have all 8 shafts threaded.  I monkeyed with it yesterday and today, and am learning the adjustments.  I have a decent shed - not perfect, but useable.

Wed, 11/03/2010 - 20:49

Katie Lacewell (not verified)

Okay, so I have this loom up and running.  I wove about a yard on it in plain weave, 19" wide in the reed.  Since I've never had a countermarche before, I'd appreciate comment on the following observations:

1.  The hanging beater is way cool.  I did not realize before that you coordinate your shuttle throw with the back motion of the beater, thereby creating a larger (since closer to the heddles) shed.  It lends itself to a lovely rocking motion for weaving, and the beater feels light as a feather, although I know (from two people required to lift it on) that's it's not.

2.  The draw in is pretty severe.  Granted I did not tie the end bouts of the warp out an angle, or put a first shot in and wrap it around the end of the apron tie sticks.  I'll try that next time.  However, the edge 1/4-1/2 inch of warp was compacted enough to cause the weft to not beat in sufficiently for a level shot.  I put a homemade temple on with a little extra weight, and it helped a lot.  Are temples for cloth weaving par for the course with this loom?

3.  My shed is good as far as level top and bottom.  However, it is still not what I would call a great shed.  It's okay for my boat shuttles but I'm thinking rag shuttles for rugs are going to be a headache.  I have adjusted and adjusted, following your book, Joanne. Threads are through the middle of the heddles, and through the middle of the reed.  If I shorten the short treadle ties any further, the treadles run into the lamms.  Any hints on what else I could do?  FYI, no lamms are weighted.

Thanks for your help, guys.


Katie

Wed, 11/03/2010 - 22:52

Joanne Hall

Hi Katie,

Whether you use a temple is unrelated to the loom you are using.  But, it does relate to the wefts per inch you are weaving.  With the hanging beater it is easier to beat the weft closer and tighter, and that will cause more draw-in.  Try a temple and you will find the weaving will go better.

The size of the shed is most likely related to the tie up, since you have normal sized heddles, which will make large sheds.  But remember that size is relative. 

You can check to see if the shed can be bigger, by looking at the shafts when the shed is open.  If the threads which are up are touching the top of the next shaft, then they cannot go up any further.  If the threads which are pulled down are also touching the bar on the next shaft, then the threads cannot do down any further. 

Remember that the warp threads go straight from the front to the back of the loom.  If you have them too low or too high, that can restrict the size of your shed.

Also remember that a big shed is not always what you want.  And if your rug weaving shuttles are really big (and I have seen some old ones that are bigger than you might want to use) you might want to invest in some ski shuttles.  The Swedish ski shuttles are about the same height as the Swedish boat shuttles and they hold a lot of weft.  So, you do not need a big shed for them.

Joanne

Thu, 11/04/2010 - 00:28

Katie Lacewell (not verified)

Okay.  Thanks, Joanne.  I'll check on threads when the shafts are in use and also on straight back to front, although I'm pretty sure that one is okay.  I'm used to weaving rugs on a counterbalance, and it had a 5 inch reed, so it had the capacity for wider sheds.  I hope to not be weaving a LOT of rugs with this loom, since I'm moving out of production weaving and into personal weaving, but I do have a couple custom  orders here and there.

 

Thanks again for your help.

Katie

Thu, 11/04/2010 - 14:48

Joanne Hall

Hi Katie,

The 11 in heddles on my loom give me a bigger shed than I need, even for weaving rugs, so your longer heddles should be plenty long.  If you still cannot get the shed you need, look again at the tie-up.

Joanne

Thu, 11/04/2010 - 15:53

kerstinfroberg

Katie, you write:

<snip>  put a first shot in and wrap it around the end of the apron tie sticks <snip> mentioning it as if it would be something everybody normally does.

I had never seen/heard about it until I saw it on Laura Fry's blog some month ago. As I'm curious about cultural differences - is this something that "every" american weaver knows about?

Just curious,

Kerstin

Thu, 11/04/2010 - 16:59

Joanne Hall

Hi Kerstin,

I know about this, but it is not common.  More and more weavers are starting to use temples.  Madelyn van der Hoogt and many other weaving instructors and using them in their classes.  We have been selling a lot of the Swedish ones.

Joanne

 

Sat, 11/06/2010 - 13:48

Katie Lacewell (not verified)

Hi Kerstin

I never know if what I do is common or not, since I live in the middle of the boonies.  I do have a weaving guild that meets once a month.  It's 2 hours away by car and well worth the travel.  I read books, the internet, and trial and error - not sure where I got the "loop the first shot around the ends of the apron tie stick."

The draw-in problem is resolved pretty well with the homemade temple.  I'm ordering a "real" one for these smaller width pieces.  I have a wider one already.

Joanne, I did check the heddles when the shed is open and  they are against the oppositely raised (or lowered) shaft bars.  So, no wiggle room there.  Also the warp is straight front to back, and if I tie up any tighter, I'm striking the lamms when treadling.  I don't see any place to change anything.  I'll probably just get used to this shed width.  If I ever have the luck of meeting up with a Cranbrook owner, I'll drag them to my house for an inspection.  I really do appreciate your help, though.

Katie

Sat, 11/06/2010 - 15:45

Sara von Tresckow

I have a Cranbrook. I weave weft faced wool rugs on it.

Just measuured the shed and at the heddles it is just over 2.5" - guess what? That is quite adequate. Standard boat shuttles pass through without difficulty. I might be able to squeeze a bit more out of it, but right now am weaving a Oaxacan tapestry rug with a gazillion butterflies so a massive shuttle isn't an issue.

I'm using the kind of rug shuttle that has a "pancake" construction - flat top and bottom with posts to wind yarn around. I get one 4 ounce skein of  handspun rug wool on one. Yes I need to push a bit to get it through, but it really isn't anything major. You don't want to damage your already taut rug warp by stretching it more than that.

Sat, 11/06/2010 - 23:13

Katie Lacewell (not verified)

Well, that's about what mine is, so guess I'm good to go.  Thanks, Sara, for putting a tape to your loom shed.  Now I'll just go on about the business of falling completely in love with this loom.


Katie