Comments

Sun, 06/09/2013 - 18:02

larllt

I am in the process of restoring a 1947 B4.  I have so far stripped and sanded all of the wooden parts and they are ready to be refinished. It had a dark stain over the orginal finish and was very sad looking!  I was going to go with a wipe on polyurethane in a satin finish. 

I am now getting ready to tackle the rust.  I think I have read and reread most posts on restoration ... but I wanted to double check what final coats to use on parts after I remove the rust such as the:

pegs of the sectional beams, the harness frames, the heddle bars, the heddles, the long and short bars -not sure of the names, the lamms and jacks.

I have read about rust converter, rust inhibiter, Rustoleum paint, Blaster 50, Howards Feed and Wax --and was hoping for just a quick what/where.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Sun, 06/09/2013 - 19:45

SallyE (not verified)

Use navel jelly to remove the rust and if you can, give it a nice buff or sanding to make sure it's all removed.   And make sure to dry it well - a hair dryer works, as does your oven for small parts.

Use a Rustoleum paint (brush on or spray on) in what ever color you want to finish it.

Everything is available at Home Depot or any good hardware store.

 

Mon, 06/10/2013 - 12:54

Michael White

Here is my break down with notes.

Heddles bars-Rust converter
Heddles frames-Rustoleum paint
Heddles-Maas Metal Polish see note below
Pegs- Massa Metal Polish
Jacks-brass just clean
Lamms- Rust converter
Rods- Rust converter
Cast iron pieces-Rustoleum paint
Since you have refinished the wood no other finish is needed. I would run my fingers over the finish if you feel any rough spots or little pits (caused by air getting traped  and/or dust when finishing)I would go lightly  over the wood with a 600 grit sand paper. http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/macomber-looms/2564431/1-25
You will find a discussion on using the Mass Metal polish above.

Michael

Mon, 06/10/2013 - 14:04

larllt

I started with Evapo-Rust for the rust remover.  It did a good job on the heddles.  I then rinsed them and dried  with a hair dryer.  They look pretty good as is--would you still recommend the Maas? 

I went to Ace and Lowes and found: 

Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer

Rust-oleum Rust Reformer

Feed-n-Wax

Maas metal polish --"French Lavender" scent...

The Evapo-Rust was from Auto-Zone.  Are the products I purchased the same as as those mentioned ...or do I need to do some more hunting?

Thanks again! 

Mon, 06/10/2013 - 15:05

Michael White

If you are happy with the job that is all that counts. The next two I think do the same job.

Michael

Mon, 06/10/2013 - 20:21

larllt

I probably should have asked this before...The heddle bars were in fairly good shape after I removed the rust w/the Evapo-rust, so I went ahead and polished them up with the Maas rather than the rust converter.   Is that a problem? 

Thanks again,

Tamara

Tue, 06/11/2013 - 12:58

Dena (not verified)

I've been working on a 1940 Macomber.  I haven't had to do a ton of rust removal, but there are certain parts that I replaced that made a big difference in the user friendliness of the loom.  Since yours is newer, it might be more similar to the current design.  On mine, the metal side braces were closed, meaning you could move the front and back beams in, but not unattach them and swing them down to the floor.  It was easy to swap them out for the current open ones and now I can easily get into the loom for threading.  The other thing which made a huge difference was changing out the dog in the front pawl and ratchet brake for the newer "double" type.  I had to drill a new hole in the frame, which was a bit scary, but it was so worth it since I now have much more control over my tension.
Thu, 06/13/2013 - 16:44

Michael White

I don't think that is a problem at all.

Michael

Thu, 06/13/2013 - 21:18

larllt

I have so far stripped, sanded and refinished the wooden parts.  I put two coats of polyurethane on- sanding between coats and a final light sanding w/very fine sand paper--1200 or 1500 grit.  I could put a third coat on if some one thinks its a must...but I figured it's not a dining table! I just remembered... I still have the small wooden pieces to do yet. 

I have removed the rust from all  the metal parts except the lamms and the treadle bar rod.  Those will both need so work. 

It does seem like I am getting closer to being done though.

On the larger cast iron piece for the sectional beam, what finish would you recommend where the brake cable would go? 

I do need to replace the wooden parts of the sectional beam.  I talked to Eddie at Macomber and he said it orginally had two back beams, but I only got one.  He said that it would be more cost effective to replace the wooden pieces since I still had the hardware.  Three of the sides had split and been reinforced several times --almost comically.  All of the sectional pieces are there though!  Eddie said I could send those to him and he would reuse them in the replacement beam wood.

Dena- I may have the older parts like yours, side braces,  except one is broken...so its kind of like the new ones.  I have both of the pieces, but I don't know if I can repair it or not.  If you want to sell your old ones let me know. 

Thanks to all for the input!

Fri, 06/14/2013 - 12:43

Dena (not verified)

I am happy to sell you the side braces (castle to back beam), but I expect you'd be happier getting new ones from Macomber.  PM me if you'd like mine.  A number of years ago I bought a 40" that I ended up stripping down for parts, many of which I've already used, but I've still got some random stuff laying around.
Fri, 06/14/2013 - 12:49

Dena (not verified)

I also have extra 40" beams...a standard one, and the original sectional that came with the loom (and a cloth beam, but who's counting!).  Both have pawl and ratchet brakes.  The sectional is in fairly good shape, only missing two pegs which would be easy to replace. 
Wed, 06/19/2013 - 01:13

larllt

The loom continues to come along...

A couple of questions: I have removed the rust from the sectional pegs--should I paint these or use the Maas on these?  I polished one it seemed good, but I wondered if Rustoleum would be better?

I was wondering if there was a labeled picture of the looms or a parts blowout?  Would Sarah Haskell's manual have something like that?

Thanks again,

Tamara

 

Thu, 06/20/2013 - 12:52

Michael White

The Rustoleum is going to rub off of the pegs. I would use the Maas on them. This to will wear off but you will not end up with paint on your warp

 

Michael

Mon, 01/06/2014 - 18:59

Gnu weaver

So.....what did you use on your sectional beam pegs after you removed the rust? Maas Metal polish or something else? Are you happy with the results?