Hello All! With still no let up in winter here in snowy Vermont, there is still time to do those inside things, especially the ones we've been putting off! After getting over the sticker shock for floor loom Aprons, and associated items such as Apron Rods, it was time for action! My Harald Marquardsen loom needed an Apron. A tour through the internet yielded many sources for the material of choice, #10 double filled Cotton Duck, at around nine dollars a yard, however you may find it cheaper locally. A trip to town for a vanishing marker, fabric glue, and Fray Block with coupon in hand nearly completed the materials list. The last item on the list was Apron rods. These were purchased on line at Onlinemetals.com. Since the loom companies charge upwards of ten to fifteen dollars each for these rods, purchasing a five foot round "3/8 rod for $3.99, and a flat bar for about $6.00, it was a no brainer! Even with shipping it was still a bargain. After laying out the project, tacking rod pockets in place with fabric glue ( staying away from the area to be sewn), no glue around the machine needle, it was time to sew it up. A long story short, my older than me sewing machine took a "time out" leaving me with a trip to my local upholster. All edges were treated with Fray Block to keep things neat. The point here is, for around fifty dollars, I was able to make my own Apron,with Rods, including a small cost at the upholsters. A custom apron including all rods would be nearly twice the cost! Sure wish they let the guys into Home Economics way back when, as my approach to the project wouldn't have required a framing square, glue, and clamps!  Regards, Frank. 

Comments

Sun, 02/27/2011 - 17:42

sewwhatsports (not verified)

on my new to me 22" Harrisville were 3 bands of 1" twill tape.  And the loom had been stored in a garage for many years so they were very hard and ready to break.  I took them off and went to JoAnn fabrics equipped with their coupon and got nice heavy duck cloth.  A yard was enough for both the front and back aprons. The fabric was cut so the selvege edges went onto the wood of the loom.  The sides were first zigzagged and then folded over for a very thin finished edge.  The front of the apron was folded back on itself and temporarily stitched down. I then cut triangles on the folded edge every 1-1 1/2" then opened up the temp stitch line.  A zigzag on each of the now diamonds finished those edges and a permament stitch line was done to keep the fold in place.  A quick trip to Home Depot got me 2 SS rods, 3/8" that were custom cut to 22" each for me, 4 total.  The first rods got inserted into the apron itself and then the 2nd rod was attached with nylon cord-hot pink-and larkshead knots.  So I have nice aprons on the loom as I get ready to weave on it.  No pictures at the moment as the back is not working well enough to get the loom out to take them.  Total cost was less than $20 and an hour of my time.  A new apron is not available from Harrisville as they just use the twill tape so I am happy with a true apron.

Rena

Sun, 02/27/2011 - 19:10

TheLoominary (not verified)

Wow!, Rena that sounds like a wonderful job, and at a price that one can afford! Please, do show us a picture when you feel better. Clearly the "Home Built" items win out with fit, finish, and cost savings! Regards, Frank.

Thu, 04/21/2011 - 17:54

tmgukcatfan (not verified)

My Dorset loom, named Elsie after my grandmother who gave me my love of the fiberarts, also needs aprons. I sewed two of them, but didn't realize I had to cut slits to tie the second rod onto (I'm a newbie in case you didn't know). I'm off to the hardware store nearby this weekend to get two more rods. I'm glad they can cut them for me since I have no heavy cutting equipment. All I really have is a battery-poered dremel I use to sand my dogs' nails. Anyway--I loved reading about your apron making. I really didn't know how long to make them. Is there a rule of thumb? Teresa
Thu, 04/21/2011 - 18:50

TheLoominary (not verified)

Hi Teresa, A good rule of thumb is, the apron should extend over your breast beam at least half way to the beater when at forward rest. I also allow at least one wrap around the cloth beam to smooth out any fasteners used to attach. Also I cut my slits 5" apart, just make them 5"- 6" + or - to keep them even. If you had to cut through your stitching just use some fray-check or fray block and that will keep everything tidy. Regards, Frank