Hi, all-- I am new to this group because I am contemplating an 8 shaft loom and want to learn more about some of the individual manufactures before purchase. Macombers seem to have a following, so could you explain what you like and/ or don't like? A re all components wood or metal? About me: I have been weaving for about 4 years, starting with a rigid heddle and working my way up to a 4 harness Kessenich, which is quite sturdy and has all metal hardware. The 32 inch width can handle most of my weaving. Would a macro beer be sturdy enough for rugs?

Comments

Sun, 02/02/2014 - 20:53

rockytopweaver

I have a 40"/10 harness Macomber and LOVE it.  It is wood and metal and very well built.  The company is still in business, so getting parts/accessories is still possible thru them.  The Macomber looms are very easy treadling, since they are rear hinged treadles.  They are a tall loom for the most part which is great for taller people.  They are sturdy and I have added a steel bar under my beater that I use for extra weight when weaving rugs.   It can handle almost any thing you throw at it.  Mine was made in 1974 and it is still going strong.  I belong to a weaving group and at least 1/2 of the weavers have a Macomber loom either at home or at our weaving studio.  They are a workhorse for delicate or heavy work.

Michael White (moderator of this group) is the expert and I would value anything he has to say about them.  He is in the know when it comes to Macombers.

Hope this helps.

annali

 

Sun, 02/02/2014 - 22:41

Michael White

is made of maple wood with cast iron, bronze and other metal parts. With steel heddle frames.

Most schools/universities teaching weaving use Macomber loom because of their durability. As stated above it can be used to weave very fine silk to heavy rugs without having to purchase any additional equipment. You can purchase additional beams giving you sectional warp or multiple plain beams operating at the same time. You can also purchase addtional shafts as your still requires.  It is a great loom but it is not perfect. On the very large looms (like 56/16) trying to lift a large number of shafts with one treadle can be a real bugger.(they do sell an air assist unit) Macomber looms use two different types of hooks from the treadles to the lamms that require you to get under the looms to change. I have issues with the finish on the new looms, but being a professional cabinet maker I have issues with a lot of furniture. It is a good loom and if taken care of will be something to past down to the next generation of weavers. We own 3 of them from a 32/2 to a 56/16.

Michael          

Mon, 02/03/2014 - 00:05

mneligh

Macombers have been engineered for weavers.  Small details that make life difficult or easy have been considered.  For example, the heddles are the correct height for threading.  On my other loom, it's backache city.  The breast beam folds down so you can sit inside the loom to thread, and the cloth beam comes off so you can put your feet up.  When weaving, there is a heel rest that keeps your feet at the same height as the treadles.  If your floor is uneveven, there are two ways to adjust the beater.  If you require unusually high tension, you can take the chains that raise the shafts by a link or two.  It is possible to adjust the friction brake so it will auto advance.

I have a 20 shaft Macomber.   While AVL makes a 32 shaft, and while there are a number of 16 shaft looms out there, this is still one of the looms offering the greates complexity of design without going to a drawloom.

The Macomber has a very wide shed.  While this is a good thing for getting big shuttles through, it does stress delicate warps.  To mitigate this, replace the flat steel heddles with inserted eye, and shorten the chains a notch.

What Michael didn't say is that Macomber owners have Michael and people like him.  Because they are relatively indestructable and widely used, there is always help available -- not just from the manufacturers, but from weavers and their spouses.  That means access to modifications that are not factory-suppported, and so on.  It also means that they are a good "bang for the buck".

The one bad thing I can say is that they are noiser than some looms.

I'm sure you would love a Macomber.  They may not be as pretty as a low castle cherry or walnut all-wood loom, but they are a weaver's loom.

Mon, 02/03/2014 - 00:09

mneligh

As to rugs, I do a few every year.  Some are as thick as judo mats.  I don't use the extra weight on the beater.  They are good exercise.  

Mon, 02/03/2014 - 14:22

Mary vT (not verified)

Thanks for all the info so far.  I can see the ergonomic advantages for threading;  on the Kessenich, I sit on a low stool, although the beams can be removed easily to sit close to the loom.  

There have been some remarks elsewhere that it is possible to actually sneak an extra heddle onto a harness if you miscount.  Is that true?  Also, I might look for a used 32" or 40" Macomber, or even a Baby Mac.  Do the Baby Macs have the same features?

Mon, 02/03/2014 - 14:30

mneligh

You can move heddles from frame to frame.  It's more difficult when threaded, but I've done it too many times to recall.  You can also remove whole frames when they're not needed, but not when threaded.

I know nothing about Baby Macs.  If you don't need portability, though, I'd go for the stability of the big guys.  If my husband is weaving a rug, he tilts up all other looms onto their fronts while beating.  The big Mac is the only thing he doesn't endanger.

Tue, 02/04/2014 - 02:37

Michael White

Macombers sell them. ($2 each for both the big macs and baby) You slip them up the heddle bar and turn and you have a new heddle were you need it. The Baby Macs are different  from the big Macs.

Michael 

 

 

Tue, 02/04/2014 - 13:27

tommye scanlin

I've had Macombers in my life for many years.  I purchased three new ones for the college where I was beginning a weaving program in 1972, made the decision based on recommendations from others who were using Macombers in schools.  Those looms are still at the school today where they've been in constant use each term since 1972.  And through those years they've been moved eight different times to locations where the weaving studio would be.  Other Macombers have been added to those original three, all of those as previously owned looms.  I'm not sure of the total of Macombers in the program now but quite a few.

I've owned Macombers myself through the years.  Those that no longer met my needs (too large for a new space after we moved, for instance) I sold.  I was Macomber-less for a few years (I'm a tapestry weaver in my studio life, but I like to have a floor loom available to me)--went through several looms during those Mac-less years--operative words "went through"--because none of them satisfied my desire to have a loom to use quickly and easily, without fiddling with it too much.  So a couple of years ago I bought a 6-shaft 40" Macomber from a friend and added two more shafts.  Now... that loom and I have a fine relationship that I hope will last until the end of time!

Yes... there are a few annoyances with the loom (the treadle tie up with the super hooks on 8 shafts is a finger scratcher sometimes).  But, in my opinion, for something I can go to and use without a lot of hoo-ha to get what I need done, done--the Macomber is the one!

Tommye

Fri, 02/14/2014 - 14:29

Sherry Crum

I may have an opprotunity to purchase a 10 shaft, 32 inch Macomber.  I'm fairly new to weaving but am intrigued by the more complex drafts and using finer threads.  To date I have woven on 8 shafts with 3/2, 5/2, 8/2 and 16/2.   I eventually would like to work with 30/2 and 60/2 silk. Would a Macomber be appropriate for the fine weaving?  Most of my friends who own them weave much heavier rugs and are not experienced with fine weaving on thier Macombers. 

I just figured out how to create a new group post and have moved this message to the new post.  Thanks 

Fri, 02/14/2014 - 15:08

mneligh

Macombers are totally appropriate for fine weaving.  About once a year I do yardage for a new suit, blazer, etc., meaning 30 epi or so.  The only time I have had a problem with it was when I was using 10/2 bamboo for warp and had not replaced the flat steel heddles with inserted eye.  Interestingly enough, the problem happened with only one color of bamboo.  I have not had the same problem with other fibers, although I learned my lesson on my first rug warp in heavy linen, long ago.  I overtightened it before the first pick, and heard the warp go ping ping ping all the way across.  Lesson learned: use good sense when tightening the warp.

Since then, I have used all thicknesses and manner of threads in my warp -- slub linen, handspun and commercial wool, etc.  I also do lace with it, particularly leno, if that is where my mood leads me.

Again, I know nothing about baby Macs -- I only speak for the B types.