Hi everyone--newbie here. :)

So been trying to find an answer to this question, and thought I'd try here. Basically I was wondering if you could weave a shape, like a slight curve. When force is applied to the shape, it would bend, but if it were left free of outside force, it would keep it's intial form. Also, it would be awesome if the initial shape had a minimum amount of rigidity to it, such that it would take n amount of force to cause it to start bending instead of any amount greater than 0; n ideally would be a very slight application of force, like a gentle push with your hand.

Does anyone know if (a) such a thing is possible given any material, and (b) how I would go about actually creating that?

Sorry in advance if it's a silly question for this forum; not sure where to look or who to ask. Open to any and all ideas! Thanks for the help.

Comments

Thu, 12/20/2012 - 18:51

tien (not verified)

I'd try using a stainless steel or stainless steel blend yarn - Giovanna Imperia sells those, as does Habu Textiles. It produces a fabric that can be molded as you describe.

These yarns are not cheap, but as they are also quite fine, a little goes a long way.

I know it's also possible to weave with very fine gauge wire, but if you try that, be careful to protect your loom so the wire doesn't chew it up.

Let us know how it comes out!

Thu, 12/20/2012 - 19:45

neezer

Ahh, shoot... forgot to mention one other requirement:

The shape needs to be able to return to it's original shape even after having excessive force applied to it (like if you were to grab each end with your hands and forcibly bend it to 90 degrees, when you release it, it would need to go back to its original shape).

Sorry, forgot to add that bit!

I don't have any first-hand experience with the steel yarn, but from what I know of steel wire, it would conform permanently to the new shape in the above scenario, right?

Thu, 12/20/2012 - 20:06

mrdubyah (not verified)

I'm not sure what you're trying to do, but handspinners (like me) sometimes weave with unbalanced singles to put shape into our weaving.  Singles are unplied yarns.  See Summer 2010 issue of Spin-Off. "Singles warp? Yes You Can." Unbalanced singles are under tension and that tension can be used to add shape to fabrics.  Use alternate sets of single yarns with right twist and left twist in warp and/or weft to make a fabric pucker.  You won't see it on the loom, but when you remove the fabric from tension, the tensioned singles will twist and bias the fabric. See also Ann Richards: "Weaving Textiles That Shape Themselves: http://www.amazon.com/Weaving-Textiles-That-Shape-Themselves/dp/1847973191  Hope this helps!

Thu, 12/20/2012 - 21:08

kerstinfroberg

"Memory wire"?

- just a thought... have no personal experience

Thu, 12/20/2012 - 22:29

neezer

@mrdubyah - Hmm, not entirely sure what you mean by "unbalanced singles". Full disclosure that I am not a weaver, so a lot of this terminology is really new to me. I found that book you mentioned previously on Amazon, but by the description it looked like that technique would create interesting textures, but not defined shapes--did I understand that wrong? Thanks for the help! (The link you put in your post gives me a 404, btw.)

kerstinfroberg - I looked into that before, but the problem with that is that you have to have another external stimulus to prompt the metal to return to its original shape. I'm looking for a solution that can return to it's original shape on it's own (as soon as the force put upon it releases). Thanks for the suggestion, though! Any other thoughts?

Fri, 12/21/2012 - 13:48

Liese (not verified)

What to get some things clear:  you want a textile that will change shape with a light force but then revert back to it's original shape after, you want this action to happen without more manipulation than after the intial force.

1. Why?  What is this textile suppose to be/accomplish?

2. will this textile be hanging or on a surface, worn?

3. how quickly do you envision these actions taking place?

Perhaps with answers to these questions it would be easier to hone in on possibilities.

3.

Fri, 12/21/2012 - 16:24

sally orgren

I agree with Liese.

Here's a star I learned to weave a few weeks ago. It's made of stiff paper, it is sculptural, has curves, and if you push on the center, it will decrease to a flatter shape, but release the pressure, and the center will pop back into place. 

I was also thinking of the metal bands used in women's purse closures. You apply pressure to open the bag, and the metal strips holds the purse open. Apply pressure to the edge, and it snaps closed. What happens if you weave fabric and then add an internal structure that reacts to changes in pressure?

Is inflatable sculpture under consideration? I went to an exhibit in NYC because a fellow weaver was trying her hand in that medium. The pressure is applied by inflating, but let out the air, and you have flat fabric again.

Hey, I like thinking out of the box as much as the next guy, but I am not sure what you are after here...

Sat, 12/22/2012 - 15:45

mrdubyah (not verified)

Neezer, Sorry about the bad link, I must have copied it wrong.  It looks like you managed to find the book anyway.  Unbalanced singles, aka energized singles, are single strand yarns that are overspun or twisted so tightly that, unless held under tension, they will double back on themselves. They are typically made by handspinners for use in plying, which is the process of spinning two or more single yarns together, normally in the opposite direction from the twist in the singles. Plying tends to remove the excess twist, resulting in a balanced (unenergized) multi-strand yarn. As I indicated above, energized singles can be used to add shape to fabrics, although that's apparently not the kind of "shape" you're looking for. That being said, I think what you need is spring steel wire, aka Piano Wire or "music wire". That is the wire used in making piano strings, guitar strings, etc. It is very "springy" and is available in rolls. Because it is so springy it will be hard to work with, but I believe it will have the properties you are seeking. Look it up on Google and/or do a test with old guitar or piano springs to see if that will work. Good luck! DRW

Sat, 12/22/2012 - 18:27

lkautio (not verified)

Mybe elastic yarns would do what you want, depending on the direction of change needed.

Laurie Autio

Sat, 12/22/2012 - 19:22

neezer

@Liese, @Sally Orgren - To answer your questions, I'm trying to come up with a component for a dress. In the attachment to this post, the part that I want to have the properties I described above is the part highlighted with the thick blue line. Basically, I want this part of the dress to maintain the contour of the woman's back. Without the structural weave, tension and/or gravity would cause the dress line here to be straight. I'm trying to design a dress that doesn't rely on lateral tension from wrapping around the side of her body to maintain that shape. Make sense?

Sat, 12/22/2012 - 20:07

sally orgren

I hope ms.thimble is following this thread and will chime in! (She is a seasoned pattern maker working in the NYC fashion industry.)

I am not sure if the fabric in and of itself will do what you want, but what about underlying structure/boning? 

Also, what about using smaller panels of fabric in the design that give more tailoring to both curves (around the waist and also the curve of the spine) so that the fabric doesn't necessarily hang straight off the shoulders by gravity. (I am thinking costumes for gymnasts conform to the shape of their backs when standing still or moving.) Ease is another factor, having enough there that one can sit down comfortably.

Another thought, what about woven shibbori (smalll pleating) for just the panel that goes down the back? That will pull the fabric into the person's shape, but will also have ease if needed without popping out and making them look like a low slung hunch back ;-) My guildmate just took Diane Totten's Crimp & Pleat workshop, and she produced a fabric that had small pleats in both directions. 

Great illustration so we get the idea! And if ms.thimble doesn't pop in, send her a PM. Also, Daryl Lancaster is good with drafting patterns and sewing with handwovens although I not sure about her experience with highly alternative materials. I would certainly check in with her though, for her ideas.

Looks like a challenging project, keep us posted on your progress!

Sun, 12/23/2012 - 03:40

neezer

@Sally Orgren - I was shying away from boning because I thought it would be uncomfortable (trying to make this as lightweight and comfortable as possible). To that same point, I was hoping to have the structure totally woven so that the wearer could sit down or flex her back easily without feeling like she has a plank of wood enforcing her posture. :)

Not sure what a woven shibbori is--will have to research on that. Also not sure what you mean by "smaller panels of fabric in the design that give more tailoring to both curves"... could you explain further or point me towards a photo that illustrates what you mean? I'm still kinda new to weaving and dress design, so I'm a bit a newbie here.

Thanks for the tip about ms.thimble--I'll send her a PM to see if she has any thoughts to share.

Wed, 12/26/2012 - 13:29

Liese (not verified)

If you wove the back panel with polyester as part of the weft then put in vertical pleats & steamed, the pleats become permanent; if you use silk & steam they'll stay put until wetted out - traditional Arashi shibori; if you used overtwisted yarns you can also get pleats but maybe with less control (see collapsed weave & Laura Fry for material source).  As Sally mentioned  the panel itself may need shaping in the cut & sewing to further keep the profile you want.  Seems like you will need mentors for both the weaving & sewing, are you working on a project for a class? 

Authors to look up - Anne Field, Catherine Ellis, maybe someone else has some other book suggestions

Edited to add to Laurie's remark about elastic -  smocking comes to mind, maybe in addition to pleating where the angle is the most acute?

Sun, 12/23/2012 - 19:33

Sara von Tresckow

A stretchy knit would behave more like what you are describing than a woven structure. Woven fabrics are created using two thread systems at right angles - unless using Spandex or other elastic material, a weave structure won't easily expand, contract and bend on its own. Knits are loops of yarn interconnected and by working increases and decreases one can form a shaped tube that might be what you are seeking.

For the effect you desire, think perhaps bathing suit fabric that molds to the skin and stays that way - thanks to the knit structure and the elastic yarns used.

Tue, 12/25/2012 - 18:14

sally orgren

For tailored pattern pieces, I was thinking that the back may consist of 4 or more narrower and curved pattern pieces, not just one or two pieces that hang down from the shoulders (as one would find with most simple commercial patterns). You might also have a seam at the top of the hip, before the body of the dress falls over the hip/butt.

The general idea is designing many smaller pieces and strategically placed seams that conform to the body, vs using fewer pattern pieces that make a boxier overall shape. Daryl Lancaster is really instructive about constructing garments from handwovens in this manner. She has a great blog too, if you want to look at the archives on her past projects.

There are also a lot of speciality products you learn about when you take couture sewing classes for garments—so boning may not mean something as stiff as a board these days! (Again, ms.thimble and Daryl might be good resources for this kind of information.) I highly recommend taking sewing classes and seek out highly recommended instructors if you can.

Recent books and authors to check out: Magical Materials to Weave, by Lotte Dalgaard (2007, with English translation 2011), and Weaving Textiles that Shape Themselves , Ann Richards (2012). Both discuss the permanent crimp and pleating effects that we also refer to as woven shibbori. (Credit for knowing of these two sources goes to my guildmate Betty, who just happened to loan me both books over the holiday break!) 

In addition to the Diane Totten workshop I mentioned earlier, Ruby Leslie teaches a great hands-on weaving workshop for producing cloth that also has interesting characteristics beyond the flat plane called "Deflection, Differential Shrinkage, and Doubleweave."

This sounds like a wonderful project goal to lead you down adventurous new paths for 2013. Again, let us know your progress! (If you follow Tien's blog, you'll find that garment projects like this might not be executed in weeks—more like months and sometimes over the course of a year of more to figure it all out.) Ok. Not quite Project Runway speed. ;-)

Good luck!

Mon, 01/14/2013 - 01:36

msthimble

Hi Neezer,   Do i understand correctly that you want the dress to conform to the center back of the body?  You can use pleating (with pleats vertically and horozontally) or a knit as others have suggested, foth will transform as you want, but you will need the lateral tension to hold the cloth to the small of the back.  Can you provide further explanation of why you are trying to achieve this?  I feel like I am not getting the full picture.  XO Gail & Fog

 

Mon, 01/14/2013 - 01:36

msthimble

Hi Neezer,   Do i understand correctly that you want the dress to conform to the center back of the body?  You can use pleating (with pleats vertically and horozontally) or a knit as others have suggested, foth will transform as you want, but you will need the lateral tension to hold the cloth to the small of the back.  Can you provide further explanation of why you are trying to achieve this?  I feel like I am not getting the full picture.  XO Gail & Fog

 

Fri, 07/12/2013 - 12:48

sandra.eberhar…

As a knitter, weaver, tailor and sailmaker, I would say that the best way to get the qualities you want in the garment is a fitted knit.  The shape is knitted into the garment with increases and decreases.  It can be made of heavy yarn or very light yarn (jersey) and it's ability to return can be increased by adding spandex yarn to the fashion yarn.  I'm sorry to be a little negative here, but for someone trying to design a dress pattern, you don't seem to have a good base in fabric and fiber characteristics.  You might consider studying fabric before stepping into pattern design.