Hello!

I'm a first timer here, but my beloved has been a faithful lurker for months now. I was despairing about this loom she found when she told me that the place to find answers is Weavolution.

We purchased the loom, disassembled, from the daughter of the original owner. He brought it over in 1954 from Denmark to New York where the authorities tried to burn it. It was packed in a straw-filled crate, you see, which made a perfect nest for rats. Apparently at the time policy was to burn anything packed in straw. He threw himself over the crate and told them they'd have to burn him too. They let him go.

He traveled acrossed the country and into Canada, where he settled with the largest group of Danish expats in the world here in Calgary. They all had looms, and formed their own little industry for a while.

The fellow died about a decade ago, and his daughter and son-in-law took pictures of the loom before disassembling and storing it. Eventually we got ahold of it, and I'd been waiting for better weather before I starting restoring anything.

The daughter had the forsight to take many pictures of the assembled loom the aid in reassembling it. Here are the two full body shots.

Assembled loom

And here's one that I took of the affixed plate. Apologies in advance for the quality of the pictures. My actual camera went through the drier and didn't survive. These are from a phone.

Plate

I know about metals, so that's where I started. I pulled all the metal pieces out and used my Dremel and hand brushes to remove the rust, which in some cases was considerable. I then used the age old technique of rust bluing with apple cider vinegar to help protect the metal and make it look awesome. Some of the bolts were originally painted black, but most of the paint was gone, so I put them through the process as well.

Here's an example of two screws (different sizes) before and after treatment. The before screw here wasn't in the best shape nor the worst shape. I'd say it was the median. (Note that the orange lighting gives everything an extra orange tinge, including the blued screw.)

Screw before and after

 

Here's my problem: I know next to nothing about wood. I know that this loom is solid beech, but I'm not sure what to do with various issues.

Problem 1: The stool.

The stool is incredible. It's the most solid sitting surface I've ever encountered. The trouble is the splitting.

The bottom. The lighter areas with the screw holes are where two wooden pieces were screwed, I'm assuming as a brace of sorts. You can see some splits a the top of the pictures.

Stool bottom

The top is separating all over the place.

Stool top

Problem 2: The knots.

There are knots like the one pictured all over. I don't know if they pose a problem or not, and perhaps the answer will fall in with problem three.

Knot

Problem 3: The finish.

Not all the parts are finished. I'm assuming that the bare parts are bare for a reason, but I don't know how to go about refinishing the parts that need it. The finish is not perfectly smooth, and someone I know thought that the finish might therefore be oil/varnish, but I have no idea.

Problem 4: The water damage.

None of the pictured showed it properly, but all the bottom pieces have several centimeteres of the tell-tale signs of water from many moons ago.

You can also see another one of those knots. This is the only one that doesn't have the yellow-ish streaking around it.

Water damage

Problem 5: Splitting.

Here are two examples of splitting. The one running lengthwise down this beam is by far the worst, but there many of them all over the loom. Is epoxy the answer? Butterly inlays? Alien goo?

Split 1

Split 2

Problem 7: The shuttles.

Two of the three shuttles are original, and one of them in particular needs some help. You can see that the metal is well rusted, and I'm not sure how (or if) I can remove it to treat it.

Shuttle

Problem 8: These things.

Combobulator

I don't know what anything on a loom is called, so I call these things the Combobulators. There are two of them. Using my powers of deduction I concluded that there is one for each beam. (What can I say? I'm a mathematical genious.)

The problem I have is that I cannot remove them easily. The bolt comes through from the other side, the nut is screwed onto it, and the tip of the bolt is hammered over, much like a rivet. I could just cut the tips off, but then I couldn't get them back on because there isn't enough extra bolt to hammer the tips over again. These two Combobulators are in horrible shape. The one not pictured has corroded chunks taken out of it. So how do I remove them or how do I rescue them without removing them?

Problem 9: This initial post is unreasonably long. Forgive me. Here's a picture of an adorable lamb to make it up to you. (Yes, I hot linked it like a naughty boy.)

Lamb

 

That's about it.

This is the first large-scale project like this I've ever done, and I'm really looking forward to the whole process. I want to do it right, and I'm willing to take the time to learn and do whatever it takes.

My beloved doesn't want it to look brand new, but wants it to have all the original parts and personality while still lasting another sixty years. I'm confident I can accomplish that with approximately a tonne of guidance.

Thanks for your time and for having such an incredible community.

 

Justin T. Thurn

Comments

sarahnopp (not verified)

I am going for the easiest answer LOL The Combobulators are part of the ratchet and pawl braking system. As far as maintenance and repai of the Combobulators... I will leave that as a more difficult question for someone else.

sally orgren

You may find some members of Weavo who own them. We also have some woodworkers on this site who can give you restoration answers. Hopefully they'll chime in soon!

SallyE (not verified)

Well, I'll take a shot at it.

The "Combobulators" - are called pawls as sarahnopp said.   You say they are in tough shape, but it's difficult to tell if they are unusable without pictures.   As for the bolts, you can replace them, so go ahead and cut off the hammered tips.   You might want to first post pictures of the whole thing - they might be just fine as is with no real need to replace them, and if so, that would save you some work.  These things aren't exactly precision instruments, like say a watch movement.   A few dings might be just fine.

As for the wood, the wonderful thing about wood is that it's so forgiving.  The water stains can often be sanded out, and re-stained so they look better.  Holes and chips can be filled, and cracks can be spread open slightly and then glued and clamped, or even screwed together if necessary.   Rockler (http://www.rockler.com/) has some two part epoxy for wood that is contractor grade and works very well.

Once you get all the problems fixed, give it a light sanding and then a good surface finish.   I recently found a new (new to me anyway) product called Howard Feed-N-Wax that is a mix of beeswax and orange oil.   It's easy to use and gives beautiful results.  Old wood like this needs to be fed.

Here is a hint - if you need to fill a chip out of an edge or corner of the wood, apply the filler or two part epoxy and then hold it in place with masking tape.   When it's set and hard, remove the tape and sand off any excess.   The tape keeps the epoxy from flowing away from where you want it and is easily removed later once the epoxy sets up.

And don't forget to post pictures of the results!

 

chroniclers

Whoa... I think I found the one place on the internet that has nice people. Does this mean that weavers are the nicest people in the world?

I guess I can start calling them pawls, but it's not as fun to say. I figured I'd have to use new bolts. It's just a shame to have to replace anything at all. I may use my Dremel to get the rust of them and blu them another way (meaning a way that doesn't require soaking). I can always chop the bolt off when all else fails.

You make an excellent point about these not being precision instruments. All the metal pieces have to do is hold things together, so it's hard to do anything wrong with them. Thanks for the reminder. It makes me calmer. (As you can no doubt tell I'm a humorless, crotchety, high strung individual.)

As for the wood:

I already found a place that carries the Howard's product you mentioned and had them put a bottle on hold for me. Question: you're saying that I don't have to strip the original finish completely, but just sand it a little to give the feed-n-wax something to soak into?

Regarding epoxy: I wasn't sure which epoxy I should be looking at on the Rockler site. I do have Gorilla two-part epoxy on hand, and I'm willing to bet that Lee Valley has something wood-specific. What should I be looking for on a label? Would epoxy putty be of any benefit to me, or is liquid important?

That tip about chipped edges and corners is gold. If the corner is broken, build a new on. Love it.

My first step will be borrowing a camera (Beg, Borrow, and Barter, right?) so I can document my progress and pester you good people with more questions.

I'm elated about this project now that I know there are non judgemental digi-folks willing to guide my feeble floundering.

Thanks a lot.

 

Justin T. Thurn

 

SallyE (not verified)

No, you don't have to strip the old finish off, unless of course you have nothing better to do with your time or are looking for furniture quality wood!   Looms are wooden machines, and the point is that they work.  Just remember to well polish the places that will come in contact with your warp or cloth.   You don't want wax, etc., on your handwoven cloth.

The two part epoxy I've been using when I really need strength is called T88 and it's from System Three (www.systemthree.com).   It's structural epoxy.  Note that it's not really wood colored - more like a clear honey.  But you can make a little sawdust from your wood and sprinkle it on the surface if that bothers you.  Or, you can do this in two stages - use the epoxy to make it strong, and then use a cosmetic filler  to fill out the crack and make it pretty.

I'm not an epoxy expert, but I think the putty products are more for filling in holes.  If you don't want the cracks to open up again, use the structural stuff.   If you are really worried, either screw the crack together, or peg it with a dowel, glued in of course.  

I recently rebuilt a 60 inch loom into a 48 inch loom, and had to do several lap joints using that epoxy.   They are as strong as the original wood - maybe stronger.   Here is a link to that project:

http://weavolution.com/group/diy-looms-tools/rennovation-walter-arm-loom-21718

Have fun!

 

chroniclers

It's been exactly one month since the last activity on this thread. 1/3 of that has been spent getting rained on. The other 2/3 have been spent on the loom.

It's done now except for anything that requires Texsolv and the treadles, which still require one more coat of finish.

You read that correctly: finish. After you, SallyE, told me not to refinish it, I did. But there's a flawless reason for doing so: I'm a glutton for punishment.

Seriously, though, the old finish was toast. I wiped one of the loom pieces with a damp cloth and the lacquer just flaked off! My Beloved, who has the final say in this project anyway, made the call to refinish the wood.

We stripped off the old lacquer with minimal effort, and I found the one place in the city that carries T-88 epoxy. I got the tube that fits in a caulking gun and uses the mixing spouts. Very useful. I epoxied the ever-living crack out of every potentially fatal flaw I could find. I generally squeezed a bead of epoxy across the crack, then used my nitrile-gloved hand to press it into the crack until. I repeated until epoxy squirt out of other locations.

After sanding the epoxy flush we starting to apply the new finish. What finish? Well it's a finish I made myself, of course! (Remember that I'm not only a glutton for punishment, but have delusions of grandeur as well.) Two of the goals we had with this project were to use little to no chemicals, and to keep as much of the loom's character as possible. To that end I made up a long oil finish, which in this case worked out to 60% tung oil and 40% AFM Safecoat Polyureseal BP. AFM Safecoat is a water based, ultra-low VOC product that is actually used to seal other VOC offgassing from paint and such. They originally developed it for use it in hospitals where they keep people with compromised immune systems, but now have all kinds of interior and exterior finishing products.

We spread the finish on, saturating the wood, and waiting for the solids to start forming, at which point we wet sanded with 400 grit paper, then wiped off the excess. 24 hours later (weather willing, which most of the time it wasn't) we did the whole process over again. Each piece got three coats. The result is an oil-soaked wood with a thin, medium-soft film. Every detail in the wood is plainly visible, and the epoxy turned flat black instead of glossy honey. It's stunning.

Some of the pieces we didn't finish. I don't know what they are. I only know my beloved told me that they can't be finished. To those we gave a light sanding and a Thai massage to get the kinks out.

The combobulators: I didn't cut the bolt off. Instead I used proper gun blu (which is hydrochloric acid and some other unsavory things) to cause rapid blackening. If you recall, I rust blued all the other metal, which required soaking in vinegar. Rust bluing creates a more stable and long-lasting finish, but the combobulators are easy enough to tend to if need be. (By the way, even Beloved is calling them combobulators now.)

That about covers it.

I still don't have a decent camera since apparently nobody loves me, but here are some horrible pictures of the incredible results.

First up is the stool. I did very little except epoxy the enormous cracks because it has so much character that I didn't want to mess with it. I didn't wet sand it because it would have been smooth enough to use as a slip-n-slide, instead opting to just wipe the excess finish off. I wish my combination of shitty phone camera and low light didn't get in the way of showing off this piece. It's just gorgeous. (That black line running through the centre is an epoxied crack.)

Stool

Next up is a combobulator and whoozit. Or pawl and ratchet. Or Ratchet and Clank. Or whatever. Note that they aren't actually this orange. I artificially upped the contrast so you can see better. I hope.

Combobulators 2

Here's a before and after. On the left is a piece prepared for finish, and on the right is three coats and buffed. This picture is better because it's outside in sunlight, but it still doesn't do justice to the iridescence. (Once again the increased contrast makes it look more orange that it really is.)

And here we have the finally crappy picture of the day. This is how far we have gotten without the treadles finished and the absense of Texsolv. You can see the unfinished ewes, or lamms, or whatever they're called centre-left.

The reed is about 47" long, 4.75" high, and 18DPI. It has some surface rust, which I'll deal with later. My Beloved will be getting a different one in stainless anyway. Note that this loom is in metric, so the measurements here are the nearest equivalent I could find.

I realized today that I still have to de-rustify some shuttles and repair the nice umbrella swift that came with this whole package. We're almost there. Wherever "there" is.

I think after all this I deserve a hand woven princely cloak made of angel beard hair and straw that has been spun into salted licorice. Thoughts?

Thanks for your help and encouragement. Your tips and can-do attitudes made me take the plunge and just try things. I know I made some mistakes -- mostly when I was exhausted and seeing triple -- but overall it was a positive experience. It did make me long for a nice workshop since our entire work area was a two-foot-wide sidewalk, and it also gave me the impetus and confidence to take on other projects involving furniture and wood. If I can handle a sixty year old loom, I can handle anything, right?

SallyE (not verified)

You did a very nice job on this!   I think you deserve a nice camera for all your efforts.  You can quote me on that.

I'm curious about that bluing process that uses vinegar you have mentioned a couple of times.   Could you write more about how to do that?

 

 

chroniclers

Thanks, SallyE! If we sold the loom I could probably get a camera!

I still have a few rusty screws that I missed the first go 'round, so I'll take pictures through the entire bluing process and do a write up. (I built a light box for small objects, so the pictures won't suck as much.)

I'll post that as soon as it's done along with commentary about how the professionals do it.

Thanks again!

[Edited for clarity.]

sandra.eberhar…

Very nice job!  As Sally mentioned, these are machines: some are furniture grade and some not.  The level of finish doesn't make it work better, but might make it more appropriate to have in a living area.  My favorite loom is yellow pine and has no finish at all.  It was stored in a barn for a very long time and is dark and oxidized.  I also have a Lervad that required a lot of work to get it functional.  This loom had some issues with poor assembly, and was probably never before used with all 12 harnesses.  Getting an old loom up and working can be a lot of gueling work, but the rewards are excellent.

sarahnopp (not verified)

Wow! You did a great job! You should definitely congratulate yourself. Just don't share your address or phone number, or you will be inundated with requests from the rest of us. :)

chroniclers

So many accolades from so many wonderful ladies. I guess I should restore looms more often.

Which brings me to sarahnopp's comment: I can honestly see myself doing this kind of thing for a living. I have a knack for repairing and restoring things (jewelry, typewriters, electronics), so it wouldn't bother me at all to suddenly find myself earning a living by restoring looms.

More bad weather here, so I haven't been able to do any of the rust bluing, but I'll get there. Once I start it only takes two days for the whole process.

Thanks again, and have a great day!

 

loomyladi (not verified)

Amazing! Congratulations and are you wanting to take on an Appalachian barn loom? They are largish 5' wide and more than 125 years old.  No metal parts, need some sanding, minor wood repair etc.  If you come fetch in WV one can be yours for your next project.

loomyladi (not verified)

Amazing! Congratulations and are you wanting to take on an Appalachian barn loom? They are largish 5' wide and more than 125 years old.  No metal parts, need some sanding, minor wood repair etc.  If you come fetch in WV one can be yours for your next project.

paulz

Its a shame I'm not any closer. I would love to pick it up but it seems as if its about 3800 miles. Not sure whether the wife would understand!!!

Paul

sandra.eberhar…

Have you tried using this loom yet?  Restoring a loom can be frustrating, because they are machines.  Some work and some need help to work.  My Lervad is a good example.  The loom, as assembled by the factory, did not work.  The treadles did not line up with the holes in the lamms; the upper and lower lamms were too close together;  the two warp beams were too close together; the lower lamms were too light to balance the treadles and harnesses.  When assembled and warped, it would not make a clean shed.  It appeared that the factory put it together as an 8 shaft loom in some places and put 12 shafts and jacks on it.  It took repositioning the lamms, weighting the lower lams and treadles, and repositoning the treadle bar to get the machine to work.  I did no refinishing, just reconfiguration.  The previous owner could only set it up with 4 harnesses, and knew it had problems, but didn't know how to fix them.