Ahh! I was in the middle of a long runner / rag rug and one of the teeth on the back ratchet just broke! Has anyone had this problem? Doe anyone know where I could buy metal replacements that wouldn't snap when the warp is under a lot of tension?

Comments

sandra.eberhar…

I have a Eureka which is missing a lot of teeth on the cloth beam ratchet.  It is strong, but it is cast iron and has been dropped a lot. Every time I use it I vow to take the cloth beam off and take it to a machine shop to have a new ratchet made.  I have put that off for several years now.  It just makes it tricky to advance the warp, because not all of the teeth on the warp ratchet are usable either because the handles on the warp beam get in the way.  You have to get a good set of teeth on the cloth ratchet lined up with a usable set of teeth on the warp beam, and don't advance it too far.  It's actually a lot more complex to describe than do.  I asked this group about fixing the cloth ratchet, which is cast iron, and the suggestion was to replace it with steel.  I think if you search for fixing cast iron the posts would come up.  The warp ratchet on this loom was missing and I replaced it with a part from Northern Weaving.  Glimakra also sells ratchets.  What is the ratcheet made of?

sally orgren

and ask if they provide replacement parts?

ReedGuy

I used 1/4" plate steel, that eliminates broken teeth on a ratchet. ;)

sally orgren

One of my guildmate's husbands made all her ratchet wheels from plexiglass I believe. He said he used that material because it was longer wearing than wood for the teeth, and wouldn't change due to moisture. Maybe our woodworker-weavers can weigh in on this?

ReedGuy

Wood works if the teeth are higher count per revolution, say 40 teeth on 8" diameter wheel, and the fins are low profile. Also with a pawl that is broad across the fin and not pointed. And quarter sawn lumber, because if flat sawn, it will shear along a wood ray. Less likely to shear at a ring, it's much denser wood there. As a round dries, it's the ray wood that pulls apart at a check most often. Side grain is also more likely to tear out then end grain because end grain takes a pounding better. Like pounding a post. So on your wheel, you'll go from areas of end grain to side grain in every 1/4 revolution. If wood is dried well to 12 % or less it won't move enough to make a difference on a ratchet wheel. You don't need high precision on something that moves slow and advances a small number of teeth. You're not using it to turn 3000 rpm's. ;)

Plexi is fairly strong. It's used on tree harvesters as the windows. If a chain jumps off a processor head and flies into that window, you don't want it to shatter. ;)

If you live near by a steel worker town, it's easy to get steel plasma cut to any pattern you want. It's all on computer.

sandra.eberhar…

The previous owner of one of my looms replaced the missing ratchets with UHMW plastic (Delrin, i.e.).  The pawls are shearing the teeth off.  I will replace them with birch plywood impregnated with epoxy.  I like the steel idea, but birch plywood and epoxy are things that I have and can work.  I have made epoxy impregnated wood parts to replace metal before with good success.  

Bradweaves

Thanks so much guys!. These are a lot of great suggestions. Unfortunately, I live out on Nantucket, and I don't have access to a lot of smiths! Not to mention, I am somewhat inept with power tools. Im hoping that there is a source for ready-made ratchets and pawls that I could order the diameter I need from. Im going to try Northern Weaving, as you suggest....Ill let you know how it goes.

SallyE (not verified)

No one has mentioned Leclerc replacement parts.  I've used them several times on new beams I've added, a loom I build, etc.   Camilla Valley Farm has a good web site that shows the parts.   I think you buy the ratchet and pawl together, but if not that would be a good thing to do to make sure they work together.  Look at the Artistat replacement parts.