A few days ago I FINALLY finished a warp I had been working on for what seems like forever!
This warp had been intended for another design, but I counted wrong and ended up with half as many warps as needed. It was unmercerized 8/2cotton and it was tiny and sticky. The sensible thing would have been to simply cut it off and start over, but I am such a cheap-skate that I used it anyway. A learning experience.
Now I have started a new warp and am using Laverne's appendix D "Selecting the Pebble Shed Warps the Huancayo Way". It turns out to be a really good way to find twisted warps before you get going on the project (another problem that slowed me down on my last project).
I am also using mercerized cotton this time, which I hope will be easier to deal with!
Beautiful! love the colours and the designs.
Whoa! I love it! And hooray for being the first to report on the "Huancayo way". You may have noticed that when you use this method and end up with the two pebble sheds in a cross, that warps are aligned in singles or pairs. Any warps that end up as pairs can be put together in one heddle-also a great time saver!
ps...may I use the picture on my blog?
Thanks Evelyn and Laverne!
Laverne, I would be tickled if you want to use it!
Now that I have finished setting up my heddles, I need to figure out how to use the pattern saving cord. I tried it in the example in your book and it made perfect sense. But I don't quite get how to use it with a more complicated pattern?
You would use it in exactly the same way with a more complicated pattern, Carolyn. Pick your pattern at the cross sticks and place the cord within the shed. When you come to do the next pick up shed, open the shed with the cord, place your hand within and remove the cord. Pick your shed and replace the cord.
Saving the previous pick up shed will help you read where the pattern needs to go without having to recount your warps. For example, if you are weaving a diagonal line as part of your pattern that starts 8 warps in from the edge and is moving to the left, you would just drop the pair you picked in the previous pattern shed and pick up the pair immediately to its left rather than having to count 10 warps in from the edge. It saves having to recount all those warps. Occasionally when your pattern reverses direction and mirrors itself, it will save you from having to pick an entire row.I can see at least one place in your design where that happens.
Was your design inspired by anything in particular?
Ok, I think I get it!
This design was just a doodle. I wound this warp wrong. I counted out half as many pattern warps as I needed to do another design and then didn't realize that it would take far less time to add the missing warps than to weave a new pattern to the end.
The edge of the desing did not work out the way I had hoped. I thought the white would show up better. I tend to be drawn to more subtle colors. I think I need to be more open to bold colors. When I admire other people's work it is usually something with a really intricate design as well as BOLD colors.
I think I would like to try this design again as part of a larger project. Maybe a border?
I saw a beautiful bag at a local fair the other day. I asked the weaver about it and she said it had been done by a visiting weaver from Peru. It looked like pebble weave, but was done with much larger wool yarn in natural colors. I have some churro in many different shades (a spinning sampler package) which might be appropriate for such a project. But I think it would make sense to use something else for weft.
Where is your new book for sale? I keep checking weavezine, but I am not finding it there?
Well it is not really "new" but rather a print version of the download so it os new in the sense that it is a BOOK rather than a pdf.. IT is a new edition as it has the four-shaft appendix and some extra text including some new text to clarify the use of the saver cord. You buy it on the same WeaveZine page where the download is sold. You will see that there is the option to buy the pdf or print version there.