Well, after alot of extra work chaining, unchaining and untangling yarn for my kilt tartan project I figured it was time to give up on the "flat" warping frame I had made. I recycled the boards from it, and only purchased 4 .75 inch diameter wood dowels , 4 eyebots and 4 wingnuts. All of the other material and boards I had on hand as well as assorted screws and wood glue. No - its not like a factory made one but neither is the price but it works.

Comments

Thu, 01/12/2012 - 23:00

Joanne Hall

It is interesting that you took the photo in the kitchen.  In the old days in Sweden, warps were sometimes wound in the kitchen.  In old homes, you can see on the ceiling in the center of the kitchen, the place where they attached the top of the pole of the reel.  The bottom of the pole was put into a large chunk of wood which had a hole bored out for the pole.

Joanne

Fri, 01/13/2012 - 01:09

r1mein54 (not verified)

Well Ok, ummmm,,,was that reincarnation or just coincidence? At least the best part is that today with your shared information I learned something new that I had no idea about. It does make sense as homes in the 17 & 1800s were smaller for most families and it is logical (at the time) that the kitchen would be the room where work was done, bedrooms for sleeping and the parlor was for guests and visitors. Another thought could be work could be done with better comfort as it may have been the only heated area.
Fri, 01/13/2012 - 08:47

kerstinfroberg

Not only warping, weaving as well (and carding, spinning, entertaining...) went on in the kitchen. Which is why Swedish looms are pegged together - can be taken apart and carried away for storage in 10 minutes. (Takes slightly longer to put together - 20 minutes, perhaps?)

Since most of these activities went on in the kitchen, chores were done in "periods": first all spinning was done (until most of the yarn needed for the year was spun) - then spinning equipment was stored; the mill was taken in and warps wound; out with the mill and in with the loom - the weaving was done. Out with the loom again - to make place for the sewing. All kinds of work can be organized seasonally...

Fri, 01/13/2012 - 22:48

ReedGuy

Hi there all. I see you made a warping reel r1mein. Looks good. I also made one following plans in an old book from the late 19C. I've been making pretty much all the support equipment for a loom that the author has provided in book. I also have been making a bunch of hand tools as I go along (reed hook,heddle hook, paddle) and special tools I think that would come in handy, but have no industry name. Here's a photo of my warp reel I recently built. It's sturdy and heavy hard maple and turns freely.

warp reel

Fri, 01/13/2012 - 22:53

ReedGuy

Oh yeah, my avatar picture is an adjustable free standing reel from maple and the drums there rotate on 1/8" brass wire.

 

Cool site. Some day I hope to try my hand on making wool blankets from yarn spun at the local woolen mill, it's Canada's oldest woolen mill. Briggs and Little.

Sat, 01/14/2012 - 13:48

ReedGuy

This a special tool I thought would come in handy in small spaces. The handle fits like a ball in the palm of your hand for comfort. I am designing a open ended fly-shuttle with tension mechanism and although there is no threading involved through eyes, this I would think would make it easy placing the thread into the path of travel. The end is slightly forked but not sharp. It is polished brass. You can rub your thumb across the tip and not make a mark. You can simply set it as is and it won't roll away.

 

I call it my shuttle threader. Made from hard maple. Simple stuff sometimes make things easier. ;)

Fri, 09/27/2013 - 12:13

scottishlamb

I built this a couple of years ago, but made a change to it several months ago.  I couldn't stand the squeaking with the wood on wood as it turned.  It would get really loud.  It'd be fine for a little while after I waxed where the wood parts met, but I wouldn't even get through one warp.  I'm sure that I didn't drill the holes perfectly straight and that's probably why it was so loud.  Anyway.  I had an IKEA lazy suzy and thought, huh.  I took off the bottom that I'd originally built and mounted the whole thing to the lazy susan.  Turns perfectly and no more squeaks.  I will say, there's no way to put a brake on this one, but it works for me.Ikea based warping mill

Fri, 09/27/2013 - 18:05

ReedGuy

Yes a lazy susan is a great way to make/use a turn about without a squeek. However, for some of us, like myself, a squeeky mill is not annoying.

Some folks can't stand the tick tock of mechanical clocks either, or the red LED lights on their clock radio that seem to shine in your eyes all night, just some of those things. :)

Sat, 09/28/2013 - 21:35

scottishlamb

lol.  It was a very loud squeek.  More like a screech.  It drove my entire household nuts. 

 

Sat, 09/28/2013 - 22:06

ReedGuy

yikes! On mine, the upright axis goes through a stand and into a base where it is seated into a drilled hole, the diameter of the axis pole.  The colar up above the base just keeps one from lifting it out of the stand, held by a set screw. Then above the stand I turned a wooden washer and that's all waxed. There is weight on that washer, from the weight of all the other parts.  I just went and did a spin on the mill up stair, and no squeek. Wax works wonders sometimes. ;)

 

Sat, 09/28/2013 - 22:06

scottishlamb

Trust me, I waxed the heck out of it.  It would quiet it for a while, but I never made it through a whole warp without the squeek coming back.  I'm quite certain that it's because I didn't drill the holes that the pole went through very straight so it cause it to rub where it shouldn't have.  Wish I had a drill press.  The lazy susan is smooth and quiet and I already had it on hand, so it worked out well.

Sat, 09/28/2013 - 22:11

ReedGuy

Yes, that could have been the problem with cantered holes. And then if not quite wide enough diameter for seasonal moisture changes. Swelling in damp seasons, shrinking when heated.

Tue, 10/01/2013 - 01:54

Weavejoyforall

I know this is generally for home built looms and such however I have put this question out to several other forums and gotten no answer...

 I have come across several old stick shuttles at a tag sale that seem to have been stained (pine maybe) I have sanded them with very fine sand paper and now I would like to know if I need to finish them? and with what? Maybe folks here will be able to help me??

Tue, 10/01/2013 - 08:43

ReedGuy

What I put on my shuttles is a 50/50 mix of turpentine/linseed oil, 3 coats followed by one full strength linseed. Apply with a rag, let stand for 20 minutes to soak in some. Then wipe with a rag. Wait 12-24 hrs between coats. Do this outside of your living space , but in a low humidty environment with ventilation, as the turpentine is quite vapourous. You don't want it left without rubbing each coat with a rag or down the road it can become sticky. Danish oil finish would be about the same thing if you don't want the extra work. The wood will be smooth as skin when done. :)

Be careful of rags with linseed oil to dispose of them where there is no danger of them igniting spontaneously. I have never seen it happen in all the years I've used linseed oil, but apparently it is a 'potential' hazard.

Fri, 10/04/2013 - 01:52

Weavejoyforall

Thanks for the help REEDGUY. I got no other answer from others.

Fri, 10/18/2013 - 22:04

Telemorris

Scottishlamb, what diameter is that center dowel? It looks like it might be 3/4"? If so, you might go to your local hardware store (are you in the US?) and look for plastic flanges or sleeves. You'll want one with an inside diameter about 1/8" larger than the diameter of your dowel. Then you'll want to make sure the hole in your cross member is the same size as the outside diameter of the sleeve or flange. Insert into the hole, reassemble the warping mill and you shouldn't have any problems with squeeking. I have other ideas if you can't find a sleeve.

Sat, 10/19/2013 - 01:31

sandra.eberhar…

I was talking to a guy in Home Depot about how to get a very, very smooth finish (I was thinking Bluster Bay) and he said to start with a mix of 50/50 water based polyurethane and water. Do several coates and sand well with fine paper. Finish with strait poly and wet sand.  I haven't tried this yet, but he seemed to know what he was talking about, and I will try it.

Sat, 10/19/2013 - 11:55

ReedGuy

With linseed oil or Danish oil, there is no 'plastic' like film on the wood.

Sat, 10/19/2013 - 15:33

pammersw

I was thinking the same thing.  The process is the same as the one with the poly, but the oils soak into the wood instead of sitting on top like a poly does. With an oil finish, you get strong, durable,  beautiful,  and water resistant.  Oil finishes come in glossy, semi-glossy,  and satin. I usually use the satin finish. I've used it in a computer desk, a treadle sewing machine (my grandmother's), a table,  a yurt, an inkle loom, and more. My favorite is the danish oil finish, but linseed is cheaper.  Linseed just takes longer to dry.