I have been wanting to experiment with balanced weaves for some time now.

A few members have made balanced weave pieces.

 

Franco made a towel.

 

Esmecat used an RH on her backstrap loom and made a loom bag.

 

Jenadina made a scarf.

 

I have only made a couple of narrow pieces........  

This finnweave band-balanced double weave and.............

this twill piece which wasn't as balanced as it should have been.

 

So this is the page to post your balanced weave projects or any questions you may have about this. Together we will figure it out!

Laverne

 

 

Comments

Sun, 11/15/2009 - 21:44

bolivian warmi

Following the WAL in the rigid heddle group I decided to try log cabin on my backstrap loom. I have just started and here are the first couple of blocks. I will post more pictures as I progress. Trying to get the right balance has been the biggest challenge-I didn't calculate-just eyeballed it. Seems to be going okay so far.

Laverne

                                               

Sun, 11/15/2009 - 17:20

francorios (not verified)

Cotton Towel, balanced weave on backstrap loom

*copied from my blog http://francosfiberadventure.blogspot.com/2009/07/backstrap-weaving-in-progress.html



Here I am on the second try. I saw pictures of people sitting on the floor with their backstrap looms and so I though I would try it. It's not bad. I need more cushion for sitting. Also need a cushion under my knees to put a little bit of flex in my knees to keep from hyper extending the knee joint. Otherwise it's not bad. I had joked about my legs being too short for my feet to hold the far end of the loom, 30 inch long trouser leg, and it turns out it is not a problem when weaving a 24 inch towel!


Here is my view of the weaving. The loom bar at the bottom is tied to my belt strap. Then it is tied to the lashed edge cord dowel. Then we have about 2 inches of black/white border to go with the two inches of black/white warp border. There is a pickup stick that is used to hold open the shed for the stick shuttle to go through. There is the string heddle on a stick, with a safety string. Behind that is another flat stick for making a shed. Then a round shed stick, with a safety string. Then the far edge cord dowel lashed to the far loom bar. And finally, a loop of rope to go over my shoes.

Did I mention that safety strings save time?

Have a good day!

Mon, 11/16/2009 - 00:23

bolivian warmi

Here is the log cabin off the loom. Just a short piece. I didn't want to invest much yarn in it because I wasn't sure if it would work out so I guess it is destined to be cut up and sewn into something. It was a fun project.

The yarn I used is crochet cotton 24WPI. I warped it on a warping board with 4 stakes and was able to separate the colors for the sheds on the warping board itself.

Once the warp was on the loom bars, I installed the continuous string heddles and the shed stick. I put a steel needle through the end loops at both ends of the warp and lashed the needles to the loom bars. I then  wound a doubled strand of the warp yarn around the loom bar and between each warp pair to space the warps for the balanced weave.

I then formed muliple crosses behind the shed stick and placed sticks in them. This really helped to keep the warps spread and maintain the balance. The warps were not perfectly evenly spread the whole way across and you can see that some blocks are bigger than others.

Laverne

Mon, 11/16/2009 - 00:15

Caroline (not verified)

That looks great, and you did a good job on the edges!

I've tried using the extra dowels placed further up the warp, and regardless of whether you are doing a warp-faced fabric, or a balanced weave, it helps keep the width more uniform, and  I suspect it evens out the warp tension a fair bit as well, particularly if you get a loose warp on a wide piece.

Mon, 11/16/2009 - 19:41

bibi (not verified)

Hello everybody,

who can tell me what does "balanced weave" mean ?

Mon, 11/16/2009 - 19:55

francorios (not verified)

Hi Bibi,

A balanced weave is where warp threads (vertical) and weft threads (horizontal) are spread equally in the woven cloth, sometimes called plainweave. Warp and weft threads are visible.

Backstrap is normally warpfaced, where the warp threads are pulled together tightly, covering the weft so only the warp shows.

Tapestry is weft faced where the warp threads are covered, only the weft shows.

I hope that answers the question.

Have a good day!

Tue, 11/17/2009 - 19:09

bibi (not verified)

Ok thanks Francorios, I understand what it is... but now, I can't imagine how you do it !! specially on a backstrap !

Tue, 11/17/2009 - 21:11

bolivian warmi

Hi bibi,

You have been weaving warp faced bands where you have pushed all your warps close together-no spaces between them so you can't see the weft at all.

In a balanced weave you have to spread the warps before you start weaving so that the weft will be viisible-as Franco has explained above. We all have different tricks to spread the warps and keep them spread as we weave.

Probably the easiest way to achieve a balanced weave is to use rigid heddle on your backstrap loom.

If you are not using a rigid heddle, here are some suggestions........

The picture below is not very good but it shows how I have used the black yarn wrapped around the loom bar between each warp pair to space the warps a certain regular distance. This I did at both ends of the warp.

The next picture shows the log cabin in progress. The problem is that while you are weaving it is difficult to maintain this even spacing and the warps want to move in close to each other. So, in the photo below, I have placed a number of extra sticks in the warp locked into place in multiple crosses and this helped to lock the warps in their positions. This looks very clumsy!-shorter sticks would have been less cumbersome but the imporatnt thing is that it worked.

You also need to adjust the way in which you lay in the weft in a balanced weave.

Laverne

 

Tue, 11/17/2009 - 22:40

francorios (not verified)

If you can establish the war[ spacing before you start, whether you use twining cords or lashing or leash sticks, you can weave warpfaced, weft face or plainweave, just keep your spacing as you weave. With the backstrap loom the weaver has total control of the piece, or total lack of control in some pieces.

Check the example below copied from my blog:

http://francosfiberadventure.blogspot.com/2009/09/acrylicchenille-scarf-on-backstrap-loom.html


Here is the weaving in progress. At first I beat the chenille firmly and found the scarf was as stiff as a carpet. So I loosened up the the weave by pulling it back up the warp and putting it back down the warp with a comb. Then I started weaving again from that point and did not beat it so hard. Much better feel. Kind of a balancing act between beating for a firm weave and having a loose weave/drape by placing the weft, not beating.

By the way, that is a wooden footstool under my leg. I am sitting on our couch which sits kind of low. I have a pillow behind to help support my back. The television is to my right. The remote control is on my left.

Have a good day!

Wed, 11/18/2009 - 09:24

bibi (not verified)

Thanks a lot Laverne !

That is total clear now ! I shall have a try on this technique one of these days...

Thu, 11/19/2009 - 21:33

Kurt Pippin (not verified)

You can also use weft twining and chaining or other warp-wrapping to maintain (or vary) the warp spacing.

Kurt

Fri, 11/20/2009 - 08:57

bibi (not verified)

Hello Kurt,

Is it really the same ? in what you explain, what I understand is that you won't see the warp at all, whereas in what Franco and Laverne explain, what I understand is that you see alternatively warp then weft...

Or may be I didn't understand anythin at all ??

Michelle

Fri, 11/20/2009 - 09:18

Kurt Pippin (not verified)

I didn't explain it well. I would insert a pick of some wrapped warp technique at widely spaced intervals and use plain weave throughout the rest.  The occasional pass of wrapped warp will hide the warp completely on both sides, but the plain weave will be (somewhat) balanced.

I don't think I've ever achieved a perfectly balanced plain weave on any loom. I usually have at least a slight warp emphasis. But that doesn't matter to anyone but weavers who are studying technique.

If I'm still not explaining this well, go with what Franco and Laverne are suggesting. Or even if I've been more clear this time, it could be better to follow their suggestions anyway.  :-)

Kurt

Fri, 11/20/2009 - 13:11

bibi (not verified)

Hello Kurt

well, I don't understand what you're trying to explain but I thank you for the try ... as a very beginner in weaving I think it's not very important at the moment, BUT I want to thank you a lot for this link     http://www.marlamallett.com/           because it's so so so interesting !      thanks a lot and have a nice week-end !

Michelle

Fri, 11/20/2009 - 22:03

bolivian warmi

Experimenting with a mini pinwheel design that Virag told me about and with cotton that she sent me-12 wpi unmercerized. The cotton is probably Sugar and Cream by Lily but we are not sure. I have found in other projects that my last 3 or 4 edge warps tend to want to close up into warp faced so here is the result of over compensation............

           

You can see the two outer pinwheels are very stretched. This cotton is lovely!

This is another one I started yesterday in 24wpi yarn. I wanted the multi colored pinwheels to ''jump out'' against a white background but it hasn't turned out that way so this one has been put aside for the time being.

Laverne

 

Fri, 11/20/2009 - 22:11

francorios (not verified)

The pinwheels look great. Those outer wheels will probably tighten up and look more balanced after the wash.

Funny how the colored pinwheels did not jump out. I would have thought the same think.

Have a good day!

 

Sat, 11/21/2009 - 00:10

jenadina (not verified)

This is really nice, Laverne! Can you share how to make the pattern? Is it just a color-and-weave effect?

Sat, 11/21/2009 - 00:29

bolivian warmi

Yes, it is just a color-and-weave effect. Virag gave me a link to this video.....

www.youtube.com/user/rigidheddleweaving#p/u/6/Qt3RdS3XkTY

 

It is just two colors alternated-on the RH it would be black through a hole and slot, then white through a hole and slot etc...Two passes of weft in each color-two black, then two white. In the video she lays the weft in straight across and also seems to push quite hard with the heddle. That was not working for me. I have to lay the weft in at an angle and push the weft in very gently. Also in the video, her weaving was a fair bit narrower than the width of the warp going through the her RH.

I'll probably finish it tomorrow. Waiting to see what happens when I wash it.

I think I am going to try another kind of twill next.

Laverne

 

 

 

Sat, 11/21/2009 - 02:46

jenadina (not verified)

Thanks for sharing!

The way she pulls her weft in and through is how I do it when weaving narrow warp-faced bands, but not when weaving balanced textiles.

Sat, 11/21/2009 - 03:19

bolivian warmi

Exactly! Yet it seems to work for her...........shrug!

 

Sun, 11/29/2009 - 20:48

bolivian warmi

Well I am playing with a new toy.

I swapped one of my Bolivian drop spindles with a Weavolution member. She was going to send me some cotton sliver. The package arrived and what did I find inside?- two rigid heddles!! (along with the cotton sliver AND some other goodies!!)

I already have two 80cm/32'' 12.5dpi rigid heddles and I was considering cutting one down to use on my backstrap loom and then along came these two surprises- a 7.5 and 10 dpi heddle 12''/ 30 cm size-PERFECT!!

So I warped up with doubled 8/2 cotton. Claudia had suggested this in the towel WAL in the rigid heddle group-(you see, I lurk and take note of all the good info) Also there is a placemat project in the Davenport book with doubled 8/2 using the 10dpi heddle so this is what I am doing.

I am NOT about to abandon my beloved string heddles for the rigid heddle but I have always wanted to try this out. I am not a big fan of the cutting and threading but now that it is set up, I am enjoying the weaving.

Laverne

Sun, 11/29/2009 - 23:58

Caroline (not verified)

How easy is it to manipulate the RH in one hand and the shuttle in the other?

This is the one big criticism ( from multi-shaft weavers?) of using a rigid heddle on a backstrap loom, whether its the smaller wooden ones for bands, or the wider plastic ones. 10dpi is not too fine a warp so the warp threads should not stick, but at a finer sett, would there be problems? I presume you hold the shuttle in one hand, the heddle in the other, and when you throw the shuttle you have to quickly swap hands so you can catch the shuttle as it comes through the other side of the weaving.

How much slower is this compared to your regular method of weaving plain weave? are you also using a sword to hold the shed open?

It doesn't look as if you have had any problems with tension as the selvedges look very good.

I suspect that while this is do-able, its quicker and easier to use the string heddles because they are lighter, but its an interesting and valuable experiment and should give confidence to anyone worried about using string heddles.

Mon, 11/30/2009 - 01:09

bolivian warmi

I have a pretty long shuttle and I don't have the habit of throwing it-probably because I backstrap weave all the time and don't use other looms. So I open the shed with one hand pass the shuttle as far as I can with the other, swap hands and pull the weft through. I lay it in at its angle with the shed closed. Of the course the heddle ''down'' position is more convenient as the weight of the heddle tends to have that shed half open on its own. I don't find the heddle too heavy.

The downside-cutting warps, threading, re tensioning and tying. Not stuff you have to bother with when using string heddles.

The upside-no fiddling about to get the weave to stay balanced and a good even and constant distribution of the warps. I haven't felt the need to measure and check the width yet or make adjustments to how I am laying in the weft.

I am not using a sword. I think I will try using one and see what difference it makes.

Wed, 12/02/2009 - 00:32

bolivian warmi

Well I finished this piece on my backstrap loom with the rigid heddle. I said above that I didn't feel the need to measure-well that was wrong-I should have as I lost 6mm somewhere along the way! Now to wash it.

I was curious to try this out as most of the ready made backstrap kits that I have seen come with a rigid heddle and, as I have tried some balanced weaves without one, I wanted to compare.

Laverne 

Wed, 12/02/2009 - 07:30

Kristina (not verified)

Hei Laverne,

well done!  

You didn`t use a temple , did you? Your edges are good and the fabric didn`t become smaller. What yarn did you take?

 My spinning project is going on. Last weekend it was  surprising mild and I made some dying with Elderberry- plant color I had. Becomes Blue -purple . Now I want to do another dying with cochenille, than I have enogh colors for the next band. in the meantime I did some spinning for a new scarf with Merino/ silk. and worked on the snake band. I mostly do varietys,  and rotate between family ,handycraft and work . so every project needs long time- but thats my stile.

 Greetings from cold Germany with thick socks and scarf weather- maybe we get snow next week. 

Kristina

Wed, 12/02/2009 - 09:30

Caroline (not verified)

It looks good! As long as the fabric is nice and firm and not sleazy I wouldn't worry about it! 6mm is neither here nor there! And if its consistent.................thats better than most of us, hehe!

I've wondered about the Backstrap kits with the rigid heddle, but its probably a case of if its all you know, you learn to use it. Its really only when you have something to compare it with that you realise how easy or awkward it is to use.  I wonder how many children keep on using a backstrap, or graduate to a little frame or rigid heddle loom. Perhaps this is why some cultures have developed tripods to use with their looms?

 

Mon, 12/07/2009 - 13:44

bolivian warmi

I am having fun with my rigid heddle again. The red piece I made came out SO well after washing that I wanted to have another go and not lose any width this time. So I am weaving with the same 8/2 cotton doubled in the 10dpi heddle and am being a little more adventurous in the pattern(!)

Laverne

Mon, 12/07/2009 - 20:24

francorios (not verified)

Now that looks like fun!

You mean you have the 8/2 with two threads in each hole/slot? What is the WPI on the 8/2 thread?

Have a good day!

Mon, 12/07/2009 - 20:29

bolivian warmi

Yep-2 threads in each hole and slot and doubled weft as well. This 8/2 is crochet thread and wraps 35 times to the inch.

Mon, 12/07/2009 - 22:40

jenadina (not verified)

How pretty, Laverne!! I really like your color choices here. Have you tried using your sword to hold your shed yet? I am doing that with my current project (20 epi with 2 10-dent heddles) because I can't beat hard enough with doubled heddles. The sword is perfect!

Mon, 12/07/2009 - 22:47

bolivian warmi

The sword got tossed after a couple of rows! I really didn't need it. The only other implement I use is a pointed stick which I use to bubble the weft. Is this current project your husband's scarf? I am curious about the ''window pane'' you mentioned.

Mon, 12/07/2009 - 22:51

jenadina (not verified)

Indeed it is :) I decided against the windowpane...I like it, but I don't think he would. I'm just weaving plain weave. Sort of wish I had gone with twill, but too late now. Oh well. It's sort of boring to weave, being plain black tabby. No color or texture to hold my interest.

Do you have a copy of Textures and Patterns for the Rigid Heddle Loom? That's where the directions for the windowpane came from...don't remember if there was a picture in there or not.

Tue, 12/08/2009 - 16:24

bolivian warmi

As I am playing with my rigid heddle on my backstrap loom I am reminded of the family of cotton saddlebag weavers I stayed with in coastal Ecuador and the rigid heddle that 86 year-old Luz had fashioned. They use this heddle sideways to weave a narrow band which reinforces the edges of the bags. The band is sewn to the edge using the weft thread as it is woven. Luz put a  base on the heddle so that it would stand on its own and could be moved from side to side to change sheds. The warp here is stretched between a screw driver which is wedged between the floorboards and a beam that runs along the wall of the room.

 

Here is a closer look at the home made rigid heddle-pretty cool.

 

Laverne

Thu, 12/10/2009 - 13:51

rose Goldielocks (not verified)

huh..... that sure is interesting.. it is possible to use card-weaving (tablet weaving) cards in the exact same fashion..

Normally one would warp up 4 cards (8 threads) and use the hemming thread as weft.

Each time you take a stich on the edge of the cloth, you turn the cards and put in another shot of weft.

The  vikings and similar ancient people used that technige on their clothing for the edges of doublets and the lace up- area on the back/frount of dresses and corsets. The problem is that most archeologist are not textile people so.. they can only generalize what a textile is... some tablet weaving can look like knitting, or plainweave if you are not looking closely. (and knowing what you are looking at)

 

 

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 14:40

bolivian warmi

Well I am very pleased with the way my ''towelly'' projects are turning out using a rigid heddle on the backstrap loom. Here is the second one after washing-didn't lose width this time but still have to work on even beat. I think it is a great way to weave these things for those who don't have the means to buy a loom (as long as you don't mind being strapped into a backstrap loom)-just buy a rigid heddle for under $30. Yes you CAN weave balanced weaves without a rigid heddle on the loom but there is a lot of fiddling around to keep the edges straight and the weave balanced. There is no fuss at all when using the heddle-just measure at regular intervals to check width..

This is 8/2 cotton doubled in the 10dpi heddle.

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 15:04

Caroline (not verified)

Those look great! Just goes to show, its the weaver, and not the loom!

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 16:27

francorios (not verified)

Those towels came out really well.

Can you tell us how you did the finish?

Did you hem stitch? Did you twist the fringe?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Have a good day!

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 16:36

bolivian warmi

Hi Franco,

Glad you like it. I hemstiched (learned this from the video link you once provided) and the fringe has just been left ''wild''. I am planning on cutting it a lot shorter. The fringe survived the first wash-handwash in hot-ish water. Do you think it's okay to leave it ''wild''like this?

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 17:24

debmcclintock

okay, I just have to ask this...with all the knowledge about using string doupes and sticks to change sheds have you guys experimenting with multishaft reeds thought about dropping the rigid heddle beater and going to a regular loom reed using your multitude of ways to change sheds? You'd get rid of the pesky hole/slot thought process.  I  thought I'd put the question out there...and yes I have done as I've asked and it works well, you just need to deal with the weight of the reed...Deb 

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 17:26

francorios (not verified)

You washed it?!! Very good! You are making progress.

If this towel will go anywhere near the stove, trim it or braid it.  My towels that have wild fringe have caught fire more than once. You could call them self trimming, but that's dangerous. The fluffy fiber is flammable. Fiber that is spun doesn't catch fire as easily and will usually smolder out once the heat is removed. This only applies to cotton fiber. Synthetics are a different story.

If these will be used as table runners or mats, you could leave the fringe wild.

Have a good day!

 

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 17:38

francorios (not verified)

Could you post a picture of the reed you used? Are the teeth steel round wire or flat wire or some other material?

My favorite thing about backstrap weaving is the weaver can make up all the pieces for their loom.

I've seen pictures of backstrap weavers sitting in a big frame and using multiple shafts and reeds. I'd like to know how they make reeds for their looms. That would be a handy thing to know for producing balanced weaves on the backstrap loom.

Have a good day!

Franco Rios

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 17:39

bolivian warmi

Would  try it Deb if I had one. For the next spindle swap I do I'll ask for a reed! I imagine the weight would be an issue.

Laverne

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 17:41

bolivian warmi

It will be placed safely on the table. wild fringe it is then!

Laverne

 

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 18:05

debmcclintock

look around for one of the Thai textile hangers, they are in import/export stores, not sure what you have down there, that is what I used at first, here is a photo of one 

don't pay attention to the vender name on there, I just googled a photo to show you, they come in different sizes and you can use the whole hanger if it fits in your rigid heddle frame (important dimension to know) OR pull out the reed and suspend it in your warp if you are doing backstrap...

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 18:11

debmcclintock

I've documented and photographed the process in Laos , I do lecture about it but haven't yet put my own jig togeather due to a major move in our life.

I consider one of the best written and photographed books is Spiritual Fabric, it would speak to your desire of making all the pieces of the loom as they have documented so much, it is available in Japanese and English.  I actually bought the Japanese version first just for the photos and illustrations.  Ways to hand make reeds are documented in there.  Here is the info, it is available but you have to hunt it down!  Deb

Spiritual Fabric: 20 years of field research among the Miao of Guizhou, China 

Description: step by step instructions and illustrations on growing, harvesting, making indigo dye; weaving; plaiting; etc; from off-loom to backstrap loom variations. 

Authors: Dr. Sadae Torimaru 

English editors: Yoshiko I Wada, Nancy A Salumbides

Published by Nishinippon Newspaper Co. (2006)

144 pages. Color illustrations. English & Chinese text. 

9.5 x 9.5 x 0.5 inches (2lb)

ISBN 4-8167-0691-7

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 18:18

bolivian warmi

I am back after having pondered this over lunch.

what I am thinking about..........How much does one of these cost compared to a rigid heddle?

I still have to cut warps and thread through slots-okay only slots rather than holes AND slots

On top of that I need to install continuous string heddles

Do these weigh more or less that a rigid heddle? I would not consider using a metal reed.

I like the natural look of it and all but for just plain balanced weaves I think i would stick to the rigid heddle on my bakstrap loom. I t would be great for more complex weaves though with multipe string heddles. Hmmmmmmmm.........

Okay  I want one!! :-)  Putting on shopping list for visit to US.

Laverne    Thanks Deb!

 

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 18:19

debmcclintock

 yep, those are the options when you consider some of the other weaves against changing equipment....

of course you make a master set of continuos string heddles with a dummy warp and tie your current warp to the dummy warp and pull them thru to use them....

your devil's advocate!

Deb

off to the dyepot to pull some mesquite dyed wool and to figure out a threading error on the loom, happy thinking!  

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 22:49

jenadina (not verified)

This is something I've been considering, Deb. I really, really like finer threads and sometimes I feel 24 epi with 2 rigid heddles to be too limiting. I really want to weave yardage for sewing, and bulky clothing is not my style :)  Thanks for sharing that it works!!

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 22:54

jenadina (not verified)

Curious...if you have a master set of string heddles on a dummy warp, do you have it threaded as for a straight twill? Would that maximize the patterns you could weave? I like this idea. I like string heddles, but I really dislike tying them. I've debated on buying texsolve heddles, putting them on a stick, and calling it good :)

Sat, 12/12/2009 - 23:01

debmcclintock

 well, in the colonial times in the US the weavers keep different dummy warps and heddles for each pattern and they are put into the loom as needed and tied on to the warp, current weavers still use this...Bonnie I. has lectured about it.

in Southeast Asia, a beater and a set of heddles are kept in the same way, each specific to a pattern, they are brought out and tied onto the warp as needed

one would just need to decide what your current exploration is and do your string heddles in that pattern, new journey?  Create another set of string heddles and keep them in a marked set, switch back and forth by tying onto the old warp as needed

or

rethread your heddles for a new pattern.

oops, just thought of something else, whatever you do, create the first one in a weave you are familar with so that you work out equipment issues separate from pattern issues......