Hi all,

I'm embarking on the COE in handweaving, mostly to broaden my weaving horizons.  I'm just starting my study of tapestry.  I was planning to warp up with a 2/10 linen yarn (from Webs) and a 1000 ypp wool knitting yarn.  I'm wondering:

(1) are these yarns appropriate to use with each other?

and

(2) what sett would you recommend starting with?

I've never done tapestry before, so any and all suggestions welcome!

Tien

P.S.  The label says "2/10" but from the look of it it may actually be "10/2" linen?

Comments

Mon, 04/26/2010 - 20:45

tommye scanlin

 Tien,

You might want to take a look at Archie Brennan's article on the American Tapestry Alliance website about the space between the warps for tapestry.  http://americantapestryalliance.org/Education/Ed_Ar/BrennanWarp.html

As a sort of rule of thumb, Archie recommends wrapping a potential warp thread around a centimeter rule, then using the number of warps as the ends per inch. But his article makes clear the reasons one might do more or less than what one determined by that method.

Several of the other articles listed under the Education section on the left side of the American Tapestry Alliance website might also be of interest to you as you pursue your tapestry learning.  The web address is http://americantapestryalliance.org

I am not familiar with the linen you mention since I usually use cotton seine twine.  I have used 8/4 linen rug yarn at a sett of 8 or 6 epi, however.  I also don’t use knitting wool as weft but use a 20/2 worsted from Norway when I want smaller wefts to bundle, or I use a 2 ply wool also from Norway.  Many tapestry weavers use Paternayan.  Don’t know why the wool you mention wouldn’t work, however.  And many others also use a wide variety of weft types.

Kathe Todd-Hooker’s book, Tapestry 101, discusses varieties of warps, warp sett, and wefts.

Good luck with it all!

Tommye

Mon, 04/26/2010 - 21:48

Joanne Hall

Hi Tien,

10/2 linen is a bit thin for tapestry warp.  Linen is commonly used for weaving tapestry in Scandinavia and northern Europe where linen can be grown.  But it should be at least 8/3 so that it is thicker.  8/3 has 925 yds in a half kilo tube.  The 8/4 is a little thicker and has 660 yds.  So, there should be plenty in one tube for your sampler and a couple more. The linen is nice for making the woven edge finish where you have the fringe.  

Since you do not need a lot of weft if you are only weaving this one sampler, you need to find a wool that you can purchase in small amounts.  It is best to use weaving wool and not the spongy, springy types of knitting wool.  But, wool is best.   Check a local shop that has needlepoint yarns.  Then you can purchase just a small amount of each color. 

Joanne

Mon, 04/26/2010 - 22:07

tien (not verified)

Thanks Joanne!  I will try ordering some 8/4 linen from Webs (they have it on sale right now).  What weight/thickness of wool yarn is best?  I think I will probably buy it in white and then dye it myself - more available colors and WAY less expensive!

Tien

Tue, 04/27/2010 - 21:54

Su Butler

HI Tien.....do you really want to go to the trouble to dye tapestry warp?  Tapestry is a weft faced endeavor and the only part of the warp that may show at all is the very ends, which you will finish in some appropriate way anyway.......just wondering....

Su

 

Tue, 04/27/2010 - 22:05

tien (not verified)

Hi Su,

I was thinking of dyeing the weft...just wondering what weight/type of wool yarn to dye!

Tien

Tue, 04/27/2010 - 22:20

Su Butler

HI Tien....Sorry......I guess I was confused....I read the post to mean you would dye the 8/4 linen.....just read right over the wool part....sorry!   I like small grist wool so I can bundle the yarns and make really interesting weft color changes.  Smaller yarn packs better, imho.  Good luck on your study.....the COE is akin to getting a degree in weaving by the time you finish.

 

Su

Tue, 04/27/2010 - 22:31

tommye scanlin

 Tien,

The 20/2 wool worsted that Kathe Todd-Hooker sells is very nice.  It's small enough to use in bundles of 2, 3 and many more, depending on the sett you wind up with.  I think part of the COE requirements for tapestry mentions doing different setts.  It can be gotten in white or natural so the same dye with both in the pot would give subtle differences.

The Vevgarn from Norway is what I also use (that's the 2 ply wool/Spelsau blend I mentioned earlier post).  It is available from Noel Thurner at Norsk Fjord Fiber... website is [email protected]  It can also be gotten in white and natural.

I love both of these wools.  The Vevgarn has a sturdy surface and hand.  The 20/2 is a bit softer but not as spongy as some other wools.  I like the firmness of both for my own tapestry.

If you'll PM me, I can talk to you about sending you some samples of my own stash (I don't sell it but would be glad to give you some small bits to see what I'm talking about).

Tommye

 

Tue, 04/27/2010 - 22:58

Bonnie Datta (not verified)

Further to Tommye's suggestion of dyeing white and natural for subtle effects, may I suggest you order several shades of gray -- I prefer undyed natural wool colors blended together, and I know these are available from the Norwegian mills.  Here is a range of colors that I got when I dyed white and 5 shades of gray, using natural dyes from plants I grow in my yard:

 

So far I've made a few tapestries with these yarns (Spelsau from Norway), and the colors are wonderful to work with.  I too would send you some samples if you like.

Bonnie.

 

Tue, 04/27/2010 - 23:15

tien (not verified)

Oh, how lovely!!  Those are gorgeous shades.  I'll PM you both.

Thanks!!

Tien

Wed, 04/28/2010 - 02:19

tommye scanlin

 Bonnie,

The photo of your dyed yarns is great!  I love Spelsau and the 50/50 wool/Spelsau (Vevgarn) is fantastic, also.

Tommye

 

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