countermarche tie up
I posted this question a few days ago, but see that I replied to a different thread. I'm repeating it here to begin a new thread regarding tie up of the countermarche loom.
I'm continuing to have issues with my tie up.
Sara, I'm not sure what you mean by a "plain" tie up, because the only way I have ever done it is by following the article that Madelyn posted. Is there some other reference that will give me more information?
I'm finding that when I take the peg out of the top of the loom, and the shafts hang in the neutral position, the front 4 tend to rest on the loom. The back ones hang, about 1/2 inch from the body of the loom. I think this is part of my problem because when the shafts are lowered, they don't have any tension on them, which allows the heddles to move around and cross over the ones that are next to them. But for the life of me I can't figure out how to eliminate this.
I'm not sure how to adjust the lams so that don't either move up or down so much.
Again, any help is certainly welcomed.
just finished a warp from hell and am making peace with the loom. To help with the healing process, I retied the whole works, starting with the article by Madelyn. I followed it to the letter. But I'm still having some trouble with getting the lowered warp threads to be even. The problem seems to be that the bar holding the bottom of the heddles that raise go up higher than the eye of the heddles that lower, lifting some of the lowered warp threads. This is especially a problem when there are lowered shafts in both the back and the front of the loom (say shafts 7. 6 and 1 are lowered- 7 and 6 will have interference from the other shafts but shaft 1 won't). I'm not sure how to fix this.
Also, some of the treadles touch the floor and others don't. I can't figure out the variable that changes that.
You have a couple of things here:
1. That article of Madelyn's has an extremely large shed, perhaps too extreme - it may well be that your shed exceeds the length of your heddles. If the lower shaft bars are bringing up the lowered threads, even by a little, you need to adjust your shed a tad smaller so that the lower shaft bars are not coming up as far. Actually, if you skip the elastics and odd lam angles and simply do a plain Jane countermarche tieup using the pegs at the lams and go for a more "normal" shed height you should be just fine.
The article you reference is based on Texsolv 330/12 heddles where most countermarche looms in cicrulation have 280/12. Remember, too, the working shed height is where you insert your shuttle after pushing the overhead beater back. If you make ANY shed too extreme, you are putting excessive pressure on your warp that is not really needed.
2. As long as you get your shed floor adjusted, where the treadle stops is actually of little importance. I generally have mine adjusted so that they do not dome all the way to the floor and stop pressing when the shed has opened sufficiently to pass the shuttle.