Weaving tartan double cloth

I am in the planning stage of weaving a stitched double cloth throw with a different tartan on each side. The inspiration is David Xenakis's "Double Tartan with Extra Weft Stitching" in The Best of Weaver's Doubleweave book. The two tartans have different stitch counts. There are 6 colors in each with four of the colors occurring in both. I am using Zephyr 2/18 wool/silk in warp and weft. First dilemma, winding the warp. How have other people solved this? Thread by thread? Single color bouts? A separate warp for each tartan? Back to front or front to back? Sett for the Zephyr? I'm guessing 30, but I may actually sample this time. Weaving suggestions? Finishing suggestions? (I'm still optimistic)

Comments

Posted on Sun, 07/09/2017 - 21:34

That is a challenge so that the stitching does not interfere with the tartan pattern on the opposite side. Is this in plain weave or a twill? With stitching, the sett is not doubled because warps exchange layers. I recommend the sett of one layer x 1.6 or as much as x1.75 for the doubleweave sett. I did a stitched doubleweave last winter for a wool coat. Began the design as a tube and added the stitching points. It was a checked twill design. Project is on the site in my projects page. Two tartans, one per face is more challenging. All I needed was to alternate solid color blocks in warp and weft because the cloth was the same pattern, but not mirrored from top to bottom. So a solid red on the surface was solid red on the back. The stitching then did not interfere with the pattern.